#NYFWM: Maiden Noir, Robert James, Private Policy

Dune Studios hosted a group presentation of menswear designers under NYMD at the southern end of Manhattan yesterday. Maiden Noir, Robert James, and Private Policy stood out for me.

Designer Nin Truong takes inspiration from his Northwestern surroundings and architecture for his collection. For Fall 2017, he cites the lesser-known photographs of Cy Twombly as his muse. The soft, warm colours of his images are reflected in the colour palette of the Maiden Noir collection. Truong chose to combine wool fabrics with typewriter cloth shirting, velvets, and satins for the season. The overall effect was a luxurious, but relaxed, urban look. It was the professional, but an artsy guy.

Robert James had a fantastic, edgy rock n' roll vibe to his show last season. This season, he responded to the political climate by combining protest and fashion. His models carried protest signs addressing women's rights, immigrant rights, Black Lives Matter and the many other issues under attack with the current president.

Styled with army surplus boots, the clothes certainly had a military feel. There were updated camouflage prints. Dark olive green, khaki, and black dominated the colour palette. By covering many of their faces, they styling served to draw attention back to the clothes, but also to focus on the protest messages as a collective idea, not individual models.

photos by Mariana Leung

Private Policy's collection was anything but restrained. Their fall 2017 them was "Polycephaly" the condition of having multiple heads. The interpretation of this is the influence of multiple styles collaged together to create a look. This could be a look that combines unusual combinations of fabrics like heavy denim and velvet to a suit that combined the flags of many nations to represent global collaboration. The designers also like to add details like beading, fringe and fur that are traditionally found in women's clothing. They like to blur boundaries, making their collection accessible to everyone, inspired by their personal friends. Their muses often include the creative, the rebellious people whom they are surrounded by in lower Manhattan. Polycephaly also referred

So there you have it. Three of menswear's up-and-coming labels Maiden Noir, Robert James and Private Policy have forged their way into the industry with a unique vision. Two of them have used their fashion presentation to make a point of making a statement on society beyond the clothes of #NYFWM. Has today's political climate has changed fashion designers into taking a stand? That is a direction I hope lives beyond a trend.

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#NYFWM: Nick Graham, Bill Nye, Buzz Aldrin Life on Mars

Be still my nerdy heart. The theme for the Nick Graham Fall 2017 show was a Mission to Mars. The show opened with everyone's favourite TV science teacher Bill Nye making remarks about space and exploration.

Like yesterday's Samuelsohn show, the preferred hair colour was metallic silver, this time to reflect Spaceman styling. Nick Graham is updating Bill Nye's lab coats to designer threads for his upcoming new series. His silvery suit had a print of rocketships. Metallics paid a prominent role throughout the collection in general, which included more silver, grey, black, red and night sky blue.

The suits were cut slim. The varied prints were playful for the young, impish hipster or the eccentric, beloved uncle. If you are more conservative in your style, you can pick and choose your pieces from this collection. You don't have to wear head-to-toe shine and patterns. Feel free to bring a bright jacket in to add a pop of colour or have a collar of rocketships peek out from your solid black suit.

The theme of Life on Mars might be an escapist idea from the turmoil of our world right now. However, I did geek out at the special guest star model of Buzz Aldrin on the runway. One of the first men on the moon, this was not his first trip to the planet of high fashion. I met him years ago at Louis Vuitton's 40th Anniversary celebration of the lunar landing. The difference is the stars in his eyes are real ones.

Nick Graham is a whiz at graphics and prints that make your wardrobe fun. When he picks a theme, his casting is perfection. On this cold, snowy day, the mission to Mars and the most qualified men to take me there absolutely made me smile.

photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:
Mermaids at London Fashion Week
What Happens When You Check Into Motel No. 7

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#NYFWM: Samuelsohn Fall 2017

The award for the chilliest runway at NYFW Menswear was the Samuelsohn's Fall 2017 show. What better way to showcase the performance and warmth of the brand's cashmere and luxury fabrics than seeing it move on ice?

Samuelsohn is a heritage brand making tailored luxury menswear since 1923. The main color palettes of autumn/winter 2017 were silver, ice blue, and wine. The luxe wools and hues were inspired by ice-capped Monte Bianco. The cooler colors representing the lakes and ice with the garnet colors the foliage in fall. The company strives to make sure their materials are non-toxic and eco-friendly. The quality of the wool was well showcased in herringbone, ombre, plaid, flannel and chenille.

Aside from the sartorial merits of this presentation, I found it downright sexy. Maybe it has to do with my Canadian upbringing, but a bunch of male models skating on ice in well-cut suits fulfilled a fantasy I didn't even know I had. The models were styled in metallic silver hair like a really hot Jack Frost. Canada's studly skater Eric Radford spun and leaped into the air and into the dreams of the guests at the show.

The ice rink at the Standard Hotel near the Highline hosted the show. Gingerbread cookies were served up with hot toddy drinks and hot cocoa stuffed with homemade marshmallows.

New York Menswear Week started with a cold day, but the Samuelsohn Fall 2017 collection brought the heat. I am surprised that the ice rink even stayed intact. More designers need to employ skaters! Guys, please take note.

Photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

Robert James Rock n' Roll Style

Jedi Chic: Greg Lauren Menswear

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NYFW Menswear: Greg Lauren Fall 2016

 This had to be the coolest presentation of NY Fashion Week Mens. Greg Lauren presented a study of masculinity in all of its classic archetypes for his fall 2016 collection. The main set piece was the vignette of boxers. Other iconic male roles included the nomad, the artist, the dandy, the cowboy and superhero.

The clothing itself was luxuriously dishevelled. There was a lot of overdyed and faded linen, wool and cotton textures. The color palette ranged from various shades of grey to navy, charcoal, olive green and maroon. Pant silhouettes had a relaxed fit up top, but slim fit in the leg like riding pants. Vests and tailored jacket had a sculpted fit that was softened with multiple washes. Garment edges were artfully frayed, worn into holes or leather edges were left to their natural shape.

Between the setting and the backdrop, every photo coming out of this presentation looked great. I liked how the overall message of the collection was that there was no single ideal for masculinity, nor was it one-dimensional. The models were ethnically diverse (but they were all tall, fit and handsome of course). Tyson Beckford, one of my favorite male models of all time was the key attraction (or was that just me?)

Greg Lauren's fall 2016 collection was the ultimate show of testosterone in stylish form.

Photos courtesy of the designer

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Gypsy Sport Spring 2016

What a cheeky fashion show from streetwear brand Gypsy Sport. This was one of the most anticipated presentations of NY Fashion Week Men's. Designer Rio Uribe has won design awards and consults with other global brands for his unique perspective on men's style.

His particular expertise is in his headpieces. There were tongue-in-cheek twists on fisherman's hats with net, visors, tribal gear interpreted in candy colors, the list goes on. The avant-garde accessories also continued downward to fringe and net vests.

There were several distinct themes like the baseball pinstripe, quirky pink and pastel and then earthy safari themes. This collection was described as "gender fluid". While one hears the term "androgynous" quite often, gender fluidity seems to be a relatively new trend for people to self-identity.

In the case of Gypsy Sport, this was interpreted by adding details that are traditionally associated with women's' clothing in their men's collection. Think shirring and a ruffle on a top. Loose clothing isn't necessarily hiding something.

The models were clearly directed to enjoy themselves and create a character that suits the collection and mood.. Gypsy Sport is all about showcasing the beauty of diversity and taking them out of their comfort zone.

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