Custo Barcelona - Fall 2011

The attitude was wild and brash.  David and Custodio Dalmau’s show for Custo Barcelona is one of the most anticipated during fashion week for its vibrant outlook.   For me, it was the first time seeing them live on the runway.  My eyes were blinded from the swirling patterns.

There were several pieces that evolved from last Fall’s ‘it’ item, the fur vest.  For the upcoming season, there was a feathered, halter vest, looped wool jacket, layered faux fur stripe cape and stripes of bleached white.  Their signature mix of prints this season included 1960’s geometrics mixed with electric paisley for a Bohemian look.  Metallic animal prints were combined with swirling knits that took you easily from Ibiza to Goa and then back to the city again.

Fashion designers tend to have 'runway' looks that are purely editorial.  By the time the pieces trickle down to the stores, the looks are tame and less theatrical.

Seeing the Custo Barcelona shops in Madrid last month, I can attest that this is one label where that does not apply.  What you see is what you get. 

Photos by Ritika Wahal

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Marchesa Fall 2011

Every New York Fashion Week, I attend as many shows as humanly possible.  Some designers are past favorites and some are designers new to me.  In all of these cases, I am looking for designs that will excite me and in turn be able to share that excitement with you.  Sometimes the shows are good, sometimes forgettable and sometimes they are true revelations.

One label I seek out season after season is Marchesa.  It is hands down THE show that I look forward to every season.  I wrote to them requesting an invite for their presentation, despite not knowing if and when it would occur.  I did not hear back from them and several of my colleagues told me that they didn’t think they were showing this time around.  Then almost last minute, I learned that the presentation WAS taking place at the same venue in Chelsea as last season.  Needless to say, I high tailed it down there on the afternoon of the event, determined not to miss it.  I was relieved to find that my advance request had landed me on the guest list. Lucky me!

Once inside, I was greeted by a collection that was everything I had hoped it would be.  The level at which they consistently produce amazes me and has my utmost respect.  I wandered through the presentation awestruck, my head buzzing with a sensory overload of beauty.  In describing the outfits, I struggle in calling them “gowns” or “dresses”, as these are so much more than that.  Each one is a divine piece of art, taking fashion to it’s highest level and creating wearable masterpieces.  This is truly Haute Couture...

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Chris Benz Fall 2011

The David Rubenstein Atrium was packed beyond capacity on Valentine’s Day.  The occasion was the presentation of Chris Benz’ Fall 2011.  Crowds pushed their way slowly through the exhibit, frustrating photographers and celebrities alike.  Susan Sarandon was spotted swimming with the tide.  Fashion blogger BryanBoy was observing the collection while inexplicably dressed as a lion. 

The clothes themselves were a representation of two of the top trends of the season…Americana and the 1970’s.   The color palette was warm, with a mix of cozy textures.  Wool mixed with leather, some fur and georgette.  Patterns included oversized swinging plaids and hippie florals.  Longer skirts with shorter pants were layered with 70's outerwear silhouettes.  Floppy hats played a big role in accessories.  Shoes were also a standout.  The shoes had funky colors and prints that would contrast the rest of the outfit.  

The muse of this collection was the studio lady of Savannah, Georgia, where Mr. Benz acts mentor.  This was another one of many nerd-chic collections this season  that once again proved brainy is HOT!

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Dennis Basso Fall 2011 collection

Dennis Basso is famous for his decadent use of fur and attracting ladies who lunch. Naturally, his Fall 2011 collection had plenty of both. The audience in attendance was different than the usual fashion week crowd of outlandish characters and expressionless editors in black. Instead, the ladies who lunched and socialite set of the Upper East Side came to support their favorite furrier designer.  

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NY FASHION WEEK:Christian Siriano Fall 2011

Project Runway's most celebrated alumni sent his darker event dresses down the runway at the beginning of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  He played with volume and sheer, with elaborate ruffling to dress up the ballgown silhouettes.  Black favored heavily in the overall palette, as Christian Siriano understands what "fierce" NY women like to wear.  One would think that the monochromatic presentation would be boring, but the designer kept the visuals interesting by mixing the weights and textures of the fabrics within each fabric.  Knits were layered with satin, chiffon with wool, etc.  

Accessories on the other, were not as successful.  Mr. Siriano's collaboration with Payless Shoes has been heavily promoted by the brand, but the footwear chosen for the show was awkward.  Perhaps the Payless platform just wasn't made for the runway walker, as several models were visibly challenged by them.

Siriano's glam-licious creations always bring out the stars...Mena Suvari, Gabrielle Union and Alexa Chung were spotted shopping from the front row.

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NY Fashion Week: Nautica Fall 2011

How relevant is sailing attire in the very urban center of Manhattan?  While you ponder that, take a peek at the Fall 2011 offerings from Nautica Sportswear.  This (mostly) menswear label has never been the trendsetter of the industry.  However, it brings value to sportswear staples with nautical details.

  

Outerwear was the standout of their presentation.  Variations on peacoats and toggle coats were the big push.  A lighter grouping of sporty whites had better intentions for the sea.  

An overworked, underslept design team was on hand to show support of their efforts.  More exhausted staff were left back at the studio to toil away for the next season, making sure the clothes fit well…

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NY Fashion Week: Zang Toi Fall 2011

It was the last show after a thirteen hour day at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week… A ray of beauty perked a roomful of exhausted fashion elite.  In a stunning runway presentation last week, Zang Toi gave a show that drew constant applause and the first sincere standing ovation I have ever seen at Lincoln Center.

The very first look was a dramatic caped cashmere figure that drew gasps from the audience.  After that came gown after gown, embroidered jewels and luxury.  The colors palette was simple,  camel, lush forest green and black.  There were hundreds of people in the studio venue, yet the atmosphere managed to be intimate and supportive.  

Real Housewife of New York, Jill Zarin walked the runway in one of the most dramatic dresses.  She also came out to help the designer take his much-deserved bow.  Mr. Toi came out in a classic tuxedo and was visibly moved by the audience response.  

I had previously worked with Zang Toi in my earlier days in embroidery design.  He was always a sweet, creative man.  I couldn’t be happier for the success of this collection!

Check out our exclusive interview with the designer in his studio:

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NY Fashion Week: Norman Ambrose Fall 2011

Norman Ambrose embodied the Luxe Life in his Fall Winter 2011 collection with vignettes reminiscent of classic Vogue or Bazaar photo spreads. Furs, silks, feathers, hand appliquéd beading were enticingly incorporated with premium knits and delicate fabrics for the woman who is both a woman of leisure and the CEO.

The show was divided into two sides, with daywear on the left and evening wear on the right.

Some of my favorite touches – on the daytime side wool suiting with gold threads and Snakeskin Pants that can go anywhere.  On the evening side – sleek, flattering, modest cuts and the subtle use of luxurious accents that some designers overuse – sheer mesh with beading and a well-placed row of feathers around the knee of a long sequined gown.

Photos and Reporting by Marcy Clark of Women's Mafia

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NY Fashion Week: Betsey Johnson Fall 2011

What was the highlight of fashion week for me? The irreverent, vivacious Betsey Johnson presenting her Fall 2011 collection at Lincoln Center on Valentine's Day. Undoubtedly, her show is the brightest  trip of the week.   This season, she presented both her upmarket Black Tag collection and her more affordable, Pink Patch lines on the same runway.  

For the 33 years, Betsey has put on a fabulous show for her downtown girls.  The models were relaxed and beautiful in clashing over-saturated florals and prints.   They strutted in short Louise Brooks black bobs with lace spray-on color insets.  

There were peplum jackets and skintight pants in black and white leopard prints.  Red rompers over shiny red leopard tights were seen.   Red plaid tartan bustiers were worn over long fuchsia skirts. While the collection on the runway was great on the models, the individual pieces were wearable for non-model types too.  My personal collection (of now vintage) Betsey Johnson  dresses still receive compliments, so I can attest that each piece is workable in any wardrobe.  

For the downtown girls, hipster girls and girly girls, Betsey Johnson has something for each of you. 

The best part of the presentation was when Betsey Johnson sent her staff of girls and the occasional boys dressed in her clothes at the end  to universal audience support of whistles and clapping.

The designer herself came down the runway and for her trademark finale cartwheel and dragged Patricia Field of Sex and the City fame down the runway with her.

Miss Jay from America's Top Model fame and the ever present, Robert Verdi, were also spotted in the audience.

More photos:

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NY Fashion Week: Yoana Baraschi Fall 2011

Designer Yoana Baraschi wants you to visit virtual reality.  Her Fall 2011 inspiration was a lot of high tech and 1970’s glam.    Bright graphic stripes were coordinated with abstract grid prints.  Colorblocking and layered patchwork techniques were a running theme.  The silhouettes included shift dresses, A-line skirts and cozy coats.

Ms. Baraschi’s upbringing was always surrounded by art.  She studied textiles and came from a family of artists.   This background was evident this season in the large scale digital prints with bright, modern colors.

  

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NY Fashion Week: Tse Cashmere Fall 2011

The classic luxury of cashmere has always been Tse’s trademark.  In recent seasons, the company looked to Obama favorite Jason Wu to bring in high fashion to the line.  For Fall 2011, they went back to their roots:  wearable, impeccable and exquisitely made.

The clothing that was presented was a thoughtful, edited collection of fall color basics.  The design team started with Pierre Cardin as the key inspiration.  There were greys, forest green, navy, brown and ivory.  There were slim pants, long draped jackets.  Dresses and skirts were also slim and long.  The sweater knits were chunky and cozy.  There was a chenille-type yarn, cables and textured knits.  The brushed double faced cashmere was two-toned and reversible.

The jewelry was commissioned from Brian Crumley.  The pieces were contemporary, but very simple.   

Photos by Mariana Leung

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NY Fashion Week: Adam Lippes Fall 2011

Nerds rule! Ok, that's a stretch at fashion week, but the intellectual role model is making gains on the supermodel this season.  At many fashion shows for fall, the smart girls with glasses have been up and the runway, proving substance is not exclusive of style.

Adam Lippes was inspired by a small exhibit at the National Museum of the American Indian in Lower Manhattan.  While the motifs were not immediately apparent, very pretty prints and occasional blanket silhouettes may have been the result.  The other looks were put-together and preppy, some 1970's thrown in. Materials included plaids, lace, mohair and feathers.  The color palette was a deep cobalt blue, rich claret, grey, gold and black.  Accessories included glasses and cozy knit caps.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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NY FASHION WEEK: Catherine Malandrino Fall 2011

The Statue of Liberty was France's gift to America.  On the fashion front, designer Catherine Malandrino brought Parisian chic stateside.  Her collection for Fall 2011 was presented in a raw loft space in Midtown Manhattan.

There was a mix of tailored jackets, form-defining knits and sophisticated dresses for the Lady who does everything.  The color palette included deep red, royal purple and emerald with some basic black thrown in.  Stripes and polka dots accented a few looks as well.  My personal favorite was the stand-alone mirror embroidered skirt.

Ms. Malandrino explained that she designed the season’s looks for women to wear from day into evening.  The presentation represented the wardrobe of the woman she represents…Successful and confidently stylish. 

With intellectual glasses and hats, the models looked like they walked directly out of the designer’s own closet.  Other accessories included large pieced necklaces and chunky embellished bracelets. 

Spotted in the front row mingling: Gossip Girl’s Kelly Rutherford and Dexter’s Jennifer Carpenter 

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NY Fashion Week: Josie Natori Fall 2011

Josie Natori presented her Eastern chic on the East Side with a tea ceremony presentation.  The sportswear was an extension of her loungewear with easy, flowing silhouettes.  She had some signature kimono-inspired looks with an emphasis on the fabric textures.

The color palette included basics of cream and black.  A deep red, taupe and chartreuse were blended in.  The brushstroke calligraphy motif was a theme that ran through from the invitation to the mannequins to the fabric prints.  Simple bugle bead embroidery embellished some of the dressier pieces of the collection.

Photos by Mdivani Monroe of Ladies Who Lunch Travel

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Etro's Caramel Peacock Fall 2011 RTW

This collection reminded me of a cozy Dandy.  The looks contained lots of patterns.  They ranged from  ditsy prints, pale paisleys to stripes and glen plaids.  The color palette contained multiple shades of caramel, browns, chocolate with pops of peacock blue.  Jackets played on different lengths, shorter double-breasted jackets to elongated lean coats.

There were embellishments that you would usually associate with womenswear, but in this collection, looked appropriate.  Dainty tucks and ruffles on shirts, contrast tabs and plackets. Accented bow ties, elaborate scarves.  A lot of the models carried big, over-sized bags of rugged leather with pops of color.

This runway show did not look feminine, but I had a hard time picturing men outside of Europe putting these looks together.

Photos by Davide Maestri

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DSquared2's Brokeback Mormons Fall 2011

You have to love the collection name.  Whether or not it was the best visual or pigeon-holed the collection itself is another story.  The clothes themselves had a sophisticated, lean silhouette.  There was some waistcoat styling with a rugged edge.  The dark palette of black, indigo and charcoal evoked a smoky mountaintop.  The jackets, shirts and slim scruffy jeans were very wearable.  They didn't necessarily scream cowboy or the 'Mormon' theme.  The only pieces I didn't get, and predict won't work well were the 'apron' accessory/vests.

Chloe Sevigny just launched her collection for Opening Ceremony.  Louis Vuitton's Fall 2010 collection was also full of conservative prairie looks.  Now HBO's "Big Love" has inspired fashion for men as well... Who knew these Latter Day Saint types were so chic?

Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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