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Saturday, July 30, 2016

Blogger Love: It's Not Me, It's You


My fellow independent fashion bloggers wrote about their complicated relationships with personal style. Layers of Chic wrote about emulating their favorite celebrity, Suzanne Carillo  wrote about finding stylish, but comfortable shoes for mature women. The Antisocialista broke it down to the basics. Blogger Outfit Zest discussed her breakup with cheap and fast fashion. I have been following Haves Clothes, Will Travel's excellent posts exploring Japan and she continues with this week's anecdote about meeting geishas. My own entry this week was the post covering the Black Lives Matter movement in fashion. Enjoy the best blogs of the week:

Links à la Mode, July 28

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Thursday, July 28, 2016

My Steampunk Cosplay on TV


I am not comfortable with personal OOTD blog posts. When I do post myself in an outfit, it is part of the narrative of a bigger event. This time, it was part Steampunk Cosplay, part description of my side gig. As a non-millennial adult, it is tough to rationalize the public documentation of your daily clothing choices. It becomes less rational when those outfits are categorized as a costume or alternative subculture.

Steampunk and Gothic fashion have always been a passion of mine, but outside of NY Comic-Con reports or the Steampunk Faire, I don't find opportunities to indulge myself. I moonlight as a background actor in between daytime gigs as part of my geeky nature. When the casting call came down from Central Casting for Steampunk fashion characters, I jumped at the chance.

steampunk on tv
I brought hand-tooled leather top hats, immaculate brass goggles. I wore an embroidered fascinator I made myself. I paired my look with a soft tulle bustled Byron Lars Skirt and Brocade Steampunk corset ensemble from Corset Story. The statement necklace, surprisingly, was from J. Crew. I sent my sister this Instagram pic that morning and told her I was required to look this way for work. Knowing me, she didn't even question why she just responded with "Of course you are."

Ultimately, they needed less Steampunk and more of a vintage fashion with an edge look. Many of the goggles were eliminated. The set was a gorgeous old private townhouse in Park Slope, Brooklyn. The shoot was for the season premiere of Difficult People on Hulu. The scene within the episode was brief but looked damn good!

It was a funny scene that starred Billy Eichner, Julie Klausner and guest stars Sandra Bernhard and John Mulaney. As talented as they are, the scene-stealer was the immaculate townhouse location. The scene itself was a parody of hipster, faux old-timey culture and the pretentiousness of the people who revel in it.

Shoutout to the beautifully dressed and eccentric, fun, friendly cast members who were also part of this Steampunk cosplay scene on Hulu's Difficult People!
steampunk party hulu

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Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Miami Swim Week: Indah Summer 2017

Boho girl at the beach? Indah Swimwear designers Libby DeSantis and Janelle Gauthier will take care of you. Their 2017 collection for summer has tassels and crochet details for the woman looking to express Bohemian chic near the water.

Lacy details and crochet adorned necklines, pelvic lines, straps, and bodices in relaxed cover-up dresses. Long straps were both functional and decorative to accent the simple, Hippie vibe. There were bold stripes and subtle patterns in some of the looks, but the strongest bikinis and one-piece suits were the styles that worked the cut-out details and sexy silhouettes. The curves of the leg openings or back thongs emphasized the butt (Miami is an ass-centric town). The peek-a-boo effect was suggestive without being vulgar.

The crochet look was further continued by the accessories from My Beachy Side. These were the perfect pairing with the Indah swimsuits. They were a great way to dress up a bikini when you still plan on being comfortable and barefoot at the beach. Turkish entrepreneur Gamze Ates conceived the collection of  hand-knitted barefoot beach accessories. They are hand-knitted by Turkish and Syrian refugees who negotiate fair pricing for their labor so they can obtain financial independence.

Indah Clothing was also socially conscious in the production of their show. Top designers often get a lot of sponsors for a runway presentation. The designers donated a portion of those dollars to benefit an organization called Haleleakeiki.org. The non-profit works to create programs like surfing and art initiative to inspire children of Kaua'i to live active, drug-free lives.

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Thursday, July 21, 2016

Miami Swim Week: Maaji 2017

maaji fashion show
The winner of best styling of Miami Swim Week goes to Maaji's Summer 2017 runway show. The Columbian swimwear brand always takes a theme and go crazy with it. This season, it was a 1970's, weekend getaway, summer camp vibe. I watched the super-charged energy of the rehearsal with glee, knowing this would be a terrific fashion show to shoot.

Unfortunately, the roller skating models were taken out during the actual show as there were too many accidents waiting to happen. Big bunches of balloons, giant inflatable doughnuts, surfboards and all manner of pastel props like oversized cameras, radios and sunglasses were part of the theme. Large lifesaver rings were perfect for framing certain parts of the body. Exaggerated ice cream cones and sippy cups provided a provocative prop for models to pose with.

Motifs were mermaids and sea-inspired. There were retro patterns and a sunny bright pastel color palette with rib knits and textured jacquard. In addition to swimwear, there were athleisure pieces and board shorts for the guys. Dresses had 1970s style ruffles. The athletic wear was more functional than pure fashion. There were printed soft nylon mesh fabric with engineered supportive bras and compression features in the zippered bottoms. The models may have been loaded up with accessories for a theatrical catwalk, but deep down, Maaji gear is for active lifestyles.

You have to love a brand that produces a show with a Go Big or Go Home attitude. Maaji summer 2017 is one of my favorite design labels to show in Miami, and they did not disappoint.
maaji miami fashion
Photos by Mariana Leung
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Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Miami Fashion Week: Gottex Swimwear 2017

gottex summer 2017
gottex fashion showGottex is remembered as the elegant show of Miami Swim Week. The models are styled with long, flowing cover-ups that easily double as evening wear. This label always has my favorite prints. The standout patterns included a rich, dark peacock and a graphic animal print that looked like a stripe. Speaking of stripes, there were some great silhouettes where stripes were used to flattering effwct around the body.

While some swimwear is great for partying or sunning at the beach, Gottex looks like it is perfect for striking a pose on a yacht. Design director Keren Gasner has been great at moving the brand ahead with classic sophistication, but updated silhouettes and prints. Simply beautiful. 
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Monday, July 18, 2016

Miami Swim Week: Luli Fama 2017

hora loca luli fama
luli fama summer 2017
rachel vallori bikiniThe runway was on FIRE. Luli Fama is one of the crowded fashions at Funkshion Miami because they always open with a bang. For Summer 2017, the show opened with edgy dancers from Black Wine events with Mohawks, flames, and Steampunk. 

The models strutted down the runway with some extra sultry attitude, driving the male photographers on the riser into a frenzy. The teeny bikinis did not hurt. The bottoms were mostly cut with a low rise with delicate ties on the side for quick removal. Tops were cut to complement the curve of the bust. Prints were injected with color in artful patterns both abstract and floral. Cover-ups included slip dresses, cropped jackets, and wraps that were coordinated with the suits. They had a polished look that could take you from beach to brunch.

Luli Fama summer 2017 was another great production. Fans and photographers love them. They make every Miami fashion week a treat!
Photos by Mariana Leung
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Sunday, July 17, 2016

Miami Swim Week: Lume Swimwear 2017


Ready to make your body a canvas? Lume Swimwear believes in fashion, art and giving back. Their Summer 2017 collection featured several artwork styles. There was an abstract painted brushstroke design, tribal patterns, and mosaic tile prints. 

Lume Swimwear commits itself to producing an ethical fashion brand and fair trade. They pay their worker's fair wages but also donate a percentage of the profits back to the communities of their employees. They consider themselves a collection with a conscience. In manufacturing, they do not use water in their printing process and use recycled plastic for their packaging.

The styles were rather sporty. The halter neck bikini top was popular with Lume Swimwear this season, as were ruffled crops and pieces with contrast straps. While most models in fashion shows maintain a cool demeanor, all of the models at this show were having a great time smiling and flirting with the photographers. The long tassels on some looks were great for swinging around. Little fringe trimmed cover-ups were also used to photogenic effect.

If you want to splurge on a swimwear brand that makes you feel good and looks good, Lume Swimwear's 2017 collection would be the place to shop!
all photos by Mariana Leung

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Blogger Love: Firsts for Everything

 LALM_7.14.16
My fellow bloggers were trying new things this week. From competing in pageants, first modeling jobs, nail art, and my contribution, blending my own perfume in Paris, Summer style was still on blogger's minds, particularly crop tops! Prints, florals, fringe and ruffles rounded out the warm weather fashion obsessions.
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Saturday, July 16, 2016

Miami Swim Week: Lila Nikole & Kruzin Footwear Summer 2017

This fashion show from Lila Nikole and Kruzin Footwear wins the award for being the first to rain out of the runway. The show started an hour late to the detriment of the designers. All of the guests had watched the increasing onslaught of lightning the entire hour leading up to the show.

The outdoor runway was suspended over the new venue of the Nautilus hotel. The show opened with a great tribal print bikini and extra long wrap by designer Lila Nikole. The Summer 2017 collection was called "Tribez." It looked to Native warriors as the muse. It featured updated tribal prints in color palettes inspired by African tribes.

The swimwear looks were paired with Kruzin footwear, a flashy footwear brand launched by Alessandra Gold, a Miami-based stylist. My favorite shoes were the metallic leather high tops with extended laces. The brand is a favorite among rappers Lil Wayne and Flo Rida.

Unfortunately, the models and guest were rained right off the runway. The downpour came crashing down and soaked everything and everyone. While the lightning and thunder started, I was keenly aware that the photographer pit was positioned directly under a tall metal structure of lights right in the middle of the open pool area. Had the show started on time, all would have been good. Since it was so late, I'm sure many people missed out on some great looks.

Lila Nikole and Alessandra Gold of Kruzin at Miami Swim week were a great duo of female designers. Too bad it was a soggy one.
Photos by Mariana Leung
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Thursday, July 14, 2016

#NYFWM: Parke and Ronen Spring 2017

Here are a bunch of cute boys in swimwear! Parke and Ronen's spring 2017 collection was all about collegiate athletics. The clothing had a lot of upgraded varsity graphics like letter jackets and sweaters. Whimsical motifs accompanied some of the logos. Sport stripes were prominent in the ready to wear separates and swimwear.

While there were a few board short styles, most of the looks were short and TIGHT! Better get in shape guys.

The two designers Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel met two decades ago as recent fashion school graduates. They partnered up to build their innovative menswear brand and also in life. Their spontaneous moment of celebration during their finale was adorable.

That has got to be one of the best trends in fashion this past year. Many of the creative couples I know got married in the last two years. How wonderful is it to collaborate in life and in love? Parke and Ronen's spring 2017 collection makes it all look good.

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#NYFWM: Black Lives Matter - Making Street Style Count

hannah stoudemire
Downtown New York is all about menswear style right now. Bloggers and fashion wannabes have 
been posing inside and outside the runway venues hoping to be photographed. One fashion influencer took that opportunity to make it count. Hannah Stoudemire, a model, and Lanvin employee rounded up fellow citizens to stand for Black Lives Matter outside Skylight Clarkson Square. She is normally a fan of the designers showing at fashion week but was frustrated at the industry's lack of response to the most recent illegal killings of Black citizens by the police. Names of victims Walter Scott and Sandra Bland were displayed on t-shirts.

Designers have made a social statement with their collections in the past. Unfortunately, that's generally an exception, not a rule. Pyer Moss showed a short film paying tribute to victims of police brutality to open his spring 2016 fashion show. Outfits within the show were spray painted with "I can't breathe" in reference to the killing of Eric Garner.

saint harridan unheeled

In 2014, during the Dapper Q's showcase of masculine fashion designers, Mary Going's fashion show for her label Saint Harridan had their models carry signs for Black Lives Matter following the deaths of Trayvon Martin, Michael Brown. 

The fact that year after year, the fashion industry even has cause to protest because of new tragedies is appalling. Many bloggers or fashion industry figures often shy away from "controversial" topics because they are afraid of losing followers or customers. There is nothing controversial about #BlackLivesMatter. It is wrong for human beings to be murdered. There really isn't a debate about that is there? Hannah Stoudemire stands to lose both followers AND customers as a model and salesperson, but she has stayed the course.

Fashion doesn't have to be shallow. Fashion week has a lot of fans and a lot of viewers. There is nothing wrong with showing you are socially aware while showing stylish clothes. Wouldn't an outfit be more memorable if you associated it with changing the world? I was happy to see fellow photographers and influencers being moved by Stoudemire's protest. The protest was silent, elegant and moving. The fact that she has already garnered press from many of the top media outlets lets me believe that fashion people are not apathetic. They just needed a worthy influencer to start the movement.
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Wednesday, July 13, 2016

NYFWM: Nick Graham Spring 2017

frankie grande fashion week
nick graham nyfw
Woo hoo! More partying in Cuba! Men's underwear guru Nick Graham took us away from the tobacco fields and back to the 1950s when Havana was a global playground for everyone from mobsters to royalty. For the Nick Graham Spring 2017 show, the venue was filled with tropical foliage while samba dancers kept it festive.

Warm weather suits in seersucker, madras fabrics and linen were the standouts of the collection. Vibrant florals and tropical prints were a nod to the famous Tropicana club of Cuba. The hints of military camouflage patterns were an acknowledge of the revolution that was brewing during this time period.

The music had models and guests dancing. I loved the International spirit and "getaway" theme of the show. There was an enthusiastic announcer introducing each model and their nationality when he was about to strut down the runway. Ushers were dressed as airline stewardesses and the programs were designed to look like a plane ticket. As with most menswear shows, there were female models wearing the tailored looks as well. With Nick Graham, the cross-dressing aspect was given a cheeky acknowledgment with the model sporting a dramatic mustache.

As a Canadian passport holder, I'm not sure what has kept me from visiting Cuba all this time. Nick Graham Spring 2017 certainly found inspiration there, Maybe I will too.

nick graham fashion
photos by Mariana Leung

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NYFWM: Carlos Campos Spring 2017


carlos campos ss17
carlos campos nyfw 2017The spirit of Havana was another theme I saw running through New York Fashion Week Men's. Carlos Campos was inspired by the Cuban Nomad and created an updated look inspired by uniforms, tobacco fields and art deco.

You can see jumpsuits, shorts, jackets, many accented with extra long belt ties. The color palette stuck close to classic uniform shades like navy, white, khaki and military green. The utilitarian comfort was emphasized by the range of both men and women of different heights wearing the clothes with ease. There were some graphic stripes and abstract graphic print to break up the solid colored pieces. The classic guayabera shirt is transformed by Campos into a tailored "Jacketbera" for spring.

Carlos Campos Spring 2017 was a great collection of clean wearable pieces for the city or traveling abroad.

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Tuesday, July 12, 2016

NYFWM: Robert James Spring 2017

The rock n' roll continued through Robert James' spring 2017 collection last night. The Ohio designer has commited himself to making classic menswear with a modern twist. The look had a British rocker slant to it with models who looked like a young Mick Jagger. The fit was very slim on the pants and jackets. Animal print and leather gave an edge to tailored pieces. 

The overall presentation format was highly effective. Emerging designers take note. The venue was not big compared to other fashion week locations. Rock band equipment was places throughout to add some ambience. Models posed on either side of the columns and rotated throughout the duration to strut down the center aisle like a runway. This created multiple photo opportunities for any guest. This also worked for a collection of fewer looks than your standard catwalk show. I loved that the models injected their own personality into their turn on the runway. 

Since the collection rotated through over and over again, it allowed for more guests to see the presentation whenever they arrived. The presentation felt intimate in that space and the models relaxed attitude helped that as well. 

The Robert James collection is a great label to follow for gents looking for a good wardrobe of fashion forward classics to live by.
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NYFWM: Artistix Spring 2017

nyfwm artistix
Day one of New York Fashion Week Men's featured the rock n' roll guys. Artist Greg Polisseni and fashion director Andy Hilfiger debuted their spring 2017 for Artistix collection with the theme of "Equality" yesterday. It was a great mix of rock n' roll with a black and white palette. The signature print was inspired by Polisseni's paint splatter style artwork. The black and white are a balance of equality, but also easy to wear for anyone.artistix jeans fashion
The top floor had a lot of leather and denim with moto styling. Downstairs had more of a grotto nightclub feel. Models danced in their underwear offering plenty of eye candy for those of us who appreciated it. 

The Hilfiger family (Tommy, Andy, et al. ) know how to bring the rockers in. I walked into this presentation with legendary rock n' roll photographer Mick Rock, which instantly gave this collection some credibility just with his presence. Let's hope Artistix keeps the party going all night long.
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Monday, July 11, 2016

Paris Guide: Eat, Sleep, Saint James Paris

black and white stairs
saint james paris
If you want a sexy as hell hotel to stay in during Paris Fashion Week, look no further than the Saint James Paris. Really. It is in a beautiful 19th-century chateau with a contemporary, cheeky decor on the inside. You have animal prints mixed with vintage illustrations and marbled wallpaper. Interior design fans would have a decor-gasm just looking at the stairs. The library bar has sultry lighting and fantastic cocktails. The formal dining room is the perfect fantasy of classic luxury. The terrace outside is like an Alice in Wonderland dream garden.

The hot air balloon theme I saw running through the hotel (the wallpaper on the stairwell, the giant booths at the restaurant, the sculptures of the ceiling) from designer Bambi Sloane are a tribute to the location. The posh neighborhood was home to the first airfield in Paris where Montgolfier hot air balloons departed. Coincidentally, my husband had proposed to me the day he took me for a hot-air balloon ride. Our stay at the Saint James was a celebration of our 10th wedding anniversary.
paris gourmet
Our anniversary dinner and last night in Paris were at the hotel restaurant. The night was so beautiful that we chose to sit outside in the garden with the giant balloon booths. The outdoor setting did not take anything away from the fine dining experience. Every dish was beautifully presented. It was a mix of classic French with a bit of modernist molecular gastronomy thrown in. Amuse-bouche included puff pastry with anchovy mousse and sweet tomato gelatin. I had a veal dish with a Rochefort crust. The cheese cart is just an aphrodisiac on wheels. Cocktails are epic creations onto themselves.

There is a luxe Guerlain spa onsite with lots of luscious-looking treatments. Guests are free to use the steam rooms and nicely appointed gym. If you are staying here for Paris Fashion Week, they'll make sure you look glowing. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to get to those this time. The staff was sweet. The restaurant manager gave me a jar of jam made by their kitchens as a souvenir. The concierge was very helpful in directing me to locations and instructing me on how to pronounce items I was looking for.

I was so sad to leave Saint James Paris for the airport. Any day you leave Paris is a sad day.
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Sunday, July 10, 2016

Blogger Love: Independence Day Style


The Fourth of July was the obvious inspiration for many of my fellow bloggers this week. There were lots of posts on styling with red, white and blue. Others looked to style American classics of denim and t-shirts or regional dressing. There are many of us traveling (myself included!) and showing us a glimpse of the styles that inspires us abroad. One of my favorites Lindsey Puls is showing us lots of good stuff from her recent move to Japan. I showed the beautiful work of Chinese designer Guo Pei in Paris:
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Saturday, July 9, 2016

Paris Perfume Workshop - How To Blend Your Own Perfume

mariana leung perfume class
perfume class
Is there a more indulgent beauty purchase in Paris than a custom-blended perfume? The afternoon was the most luxurious of DIY classes, a Paris perfume workshop in the posh neighborhood of the 16th arrondissement. I learned the basics of creating a scent from one of the famous "noses" of the industry, Marina Jung-Allegret.

Marina has created signature fragrances for many brands and served as a consultant for Givenchy and Christian Dior. She taught the workshop in her stylish flat as part of her L'ABC du Parfum school. She also leads seminars for companies and teaches marketing as well.
paris perfume class
The key points in blending a fragrance? You should have 2-3 top "notes" that define your scent. General categories include types like floral, Oriental, spicy and green. You could have many "notes" though. Florals include flowers like cassis, Lily, and bergamot that also are the quickest to fade. More woodsy and heavier notes include ingredients like oak moss and cashmere wood that stay in the scent the longest. Then you have warm notes like vanilla or medium weights like exotic fruits, green tea, powdery iris, etc. Ideally, you have a blend of different elements that make your perfume have a complex character from the first impression to last.

While natural essential oils are used, many ingredients have been synthesized as standard industry practice since the late 1800s. This is particularly necessary for popular ingredients like musk which originally required the killing of animals to obtain. Synthetic ingredients are also necessary for stability.

My first blend, I tried a mix of things I thought would smell good, like bergamot, blackberry, mandarines and violets. It turned out to be far too sweet and fruity. With Marina's help, I learned how to round out a fragrance and add elements I didn't expect to achieve my final blend. The "Mlle. Fabuleux" fragrance ultimately contains a combination of bergamot, cashmere wood, musk, clove, melon, green tea, mandarin and pink pepper for what Jung-Allegret categorized as "Fresh/Spicy".

The class was a small group, there were two ladies from New Zealand, one from Mexico, a local Parisian and myself. Marina taught in both English and French. Make a day of it as this area of Paris was perfect for shopping and finding treats before and after the workshop. You can book your Paris perfume workshop through the L'ABC du Parfum site by contacting them directly. However, I had originally booked through Tripadvisor's Viator site because I had found a $10 discount code online. You can use the Viator $10 code to book this and other excursions too.

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Thursday, July 7, 2016

Salvatore Ferragamo - Lo Splendore dei Mestieri

ferragamo shoe factory
Now for a bit of Italian chic in my Paris fashion week trip. The Salvatore Ferragamo crew threw an intimate little soiree to celebrate the opening of their Avenue Montaigne boutique. They featured artisans for both handbags and shoes working on the current collection that was available in the store right now. The fashion included chic graphic prints in geometric patterns. A running motif throughout the shoes and handbags was an embellished bullseye in contrasting colors.

You could see the level of detail and meticulous craftsmanship of both the shoemaker and the handbag artisans. The carefully measured and cut their leather pieces and molded them to form. They were clearly proud of their work and were happy to show your their process.
ferragamo handbag studio

They had a butcher carefully hand-shaving the tastiest prosciutto while servers doled out other Italian nibbles. Negronis, Prosecco, and Italian wine were served to the guests. There were a watercolor artist hand-painting famous landmarks of Italy for guests while another artist hand-cut profile portraits out of paper.

The scene outside was a crisscrossed red carpet area doubled as an outdoor lounge for guests or fans who wanted to bask in the beauty of the Paris Ferragamo boutique. I met some new French friends at the party who confirmed this was the best party of the night for Paris Fashion Week, and they had already attended many. Unlike American events, there were not too many selfie takers. An attendant at the photo booth had to convince guests to use it, where American parties, there would be a long line. Perhaps the French are so jaded from the constant beauty around them? Lucky people.

Thank you, Salvatore Ferragamo, for making this New Yorker feel welcome at your Avenue Montaigne boutique. I celebrated my time there by buying myself and my sister some new shoes as our souvenirs. (They will get much more use than an Eiffel Tower t-shirt). Felicitations on a wonderful store opening!
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Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Paris Street Style 2016 -Haute Couture Week

paris couple romance
Shooting Haute Couture was a dream come true for me. The rest of the week was spent enjoying the real life personal style of the Parisian fashion crowd. Catching street style in the shows, outside of the fashion shows, backstage and at parties was a glimpse of how the fashion crowd dresses on this side of the ocean. I found that there was a relaxed vibe to most Paris citizens with a bit of rock n' roll. Skinny jeans and pants were often paired with long draped jackets and shawls for the ladies.
paris fashion street style
Two musts for Paris street style. The first, you MUST have a long scarf. The skills to artfully drape it around your neck is essential. This wasn't just around Paris fashion week, this was for all of Paris, as my husband observed. Second was the jacket worn as a cape. I saw this with any jacket. It could be the oversized topper, the moto jacket, the blazer or any Haute Couture creation encrusted with 20 000 manual labor hours of beading. To be fair, the jacket and scarf could be due to the uncharacteristically cold summer that Paris has been having. The chic identifiers were supremely practical.
stylish chinese fashion
Again, it could just be that it was cold this week, but fur accessories were a key element in Paris Fashion Week looks. Fur wraps, collars, keychains, handbags were all there. How warm they actually kept you could be debated. I suspect it was more for psychological warmth.
Prints, more prints, head-to-toe, a graphic dance all over the streets of Paris. While this look dominates photographer's street style shots of women, it has made its way into menswear street style as well. The big patterned statement jacket, pants or even jumpsuit have been spotted on the gents near Paris Fashion Week
The moto jacket is still huge in Paris. The difference is there were very tailored or sculpted silhouette styles or crazy color combinations because they were likely to be high-end designer renditions of them. Often, they were paired with a super feminine dress or designer skirt as a way to add some edge to a classically beautiful outfit.

So there you have it, my top Haute Couture Paris street style trends. They are all easy to incorporate into your own wardrobe. Get shopping!

Check out PFW Haute Trend Roundup

by Ms. Fabulous at Mode

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Monday, July 4, 2016

Haute Couture: Guo Pei Fall Winter 2016/2017

guo pei fall 2016
guo pei haute couture
Being in Paris for Haute Couture is the life goal of any fashion fan. I attended Chinese designer Guo Pei's stunning Haute Couture Fall 2016/2017 show at the Bourse de Commerce near The Louvre. Like NYFW, I embedded myself into the photographer's pit to shoot these works of art.

The inspiration for this season was the theme of "Encounter", dreams and karma. The central motif was her signature dragon. You could see this running through in the serpentine silhouettes. There were long, slinky embroidered gowns that were tailored tightly to the body and ended in an exaggerated train. The massive train is one detail that fashion fans Stateside recognize from this designer. Rihanna wore one of the biggest trains in red carpet history at the 2015 Met Gala in Guo Pei's yellow dress. 

haute couture guo pei

guo pei dragonThe other silhouettes were equally dramatic. From the sharply built up shoulders to the innovative pleating details that emulate the folds of a Chinese paper lantern. There were ballgowns to elaborate; it would make Cinderella drool with envy. If you were a Disney princess, the glittering headpieces would make you proud. These pieces were sculptures unto themselves. These looked like crystals and feathers that grew up and out organically to frame the face. The intricate embroidery deserves close-up examination. It is incredibly detailed. Each sequin and jewel were hand-sewn. The gold dress at the top along took over 20 000 hours of manual labor to complete by artisans. There were a few dark, almost Gothic dresses with a bit of 1930's film noir looks contrasted with the sparkling gold dresses and white gowns. 
This was a historical show as Guo Pei is the first Chinese designer recognized by the Chambre Syndicale in Haute Couture. She was also named one of Time Magazine's 100 most influential people. Her gowns in the Met Gala exhibit, China Through the Looking Glass (one of the few by an actual Chinese designer) revolutionized how people viewed Chinese fashion as a whole, rather than a manufacturing hub.

As fantastical as many of the looks were, there were cocktail dresses and evening wear that was quite wearable for a special evening. Many of Guo Pei' fans were attired in her work in the audience. I absolutely expect more celebrities to wow in these looks at next year's red carpet. Bravo on a stunning show!
fishtail wedding couture
all photos by Mariana Leung
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