House of Craft x Dior Exhibit

You might admire the fashion label of Christian Dior, but do you know all of the creative people who shaped it or made it? The UBS House of Craft x Dior event in NYC's Financial District answered those questions. 

Fashion editor Carine Roitfeld, together with photographer Brigitte Niedermair, curated an exhibit of iconic looks from the House of Dior under the label's creative directors throughout its history. Sketches demonstrated the design process of leaders Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano, Raf Simons, and Maria Grazia Chiuri.

The exhibit also showcased the most memorable accessories, garments, and styled editorials, showcasing each designer's vision. There were also a series of talks about the different aspects of the fashion industry. I found the demonstrations and intimate one-on-ones with current artisans of the label the most interesting. 

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Dior Haute Couture Fall 2013

Raf rules! I have to admit, I was one of the skeptics when I watched Raf Simon's first outing for Christian Dior.  However, I was impressed on several fronts with his recent Fall 2013 Haute Couture collection for Dior.

First, the color combinations were gorgeous.  It seems simple, but the mix of black, cool pastels with contrast brights looked super modern.

Second, after lots of media scrutiny across the fashion industry about diversity, the runway here had more models of color than any catwalk in recent history.  The multiculturalism did not end there.  The silhouettes and some of the embroideries clearly had their influences in different ethnic cultures with some asymmetrical kimono shapes or puckered silk technique.  There were also draped shoulder details and sequin lines with roots from traditional African garb. What I liked was that the influences were not literal, but a hyper-contemporary, minimalist take on these muses.

Third, many young designers feel the burden to create collections that rely heavily on the brand's past to make sure they are staying true to the namesake legacy.  This collection managed to evoke the spirit of the "New Look" without actually having to trot out something from 1947.  Sure there were some dresses that could be called a ballgown, but beyond the flare of the skirt, it was completely modern.

One of my criticisms of his previous collection was that it looked too much like sportswear and that it couldn't justify the price tag.  I realized that my thinking was very dated.  It took this collection to make me realize that Haute Couture did not need to be tons and tons of fabric and hand embellishment , for luxury, it just needs to make you feel like a modern queen...

Photos from IMAXtree

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Christian Dior Fall 2012 Haute Couture

 Blooming Haute Couture! The Christian Dior show in Paris today was one of the most anticipated presentations in recent years.  It was the debut of Raf Simons as creative director, following the scandal of John Galliano last year. 

The Belgian designer cocooned his guests (which included Marion Cotillard, Jennifer Lawrence, Sharon Stone) in thousands upon thousands of fresh flowers.  The show was spread out over five rooms, each room a different color.  The blooms were said to be a tribute to Mr. Dior’s love of flowers in his day.

Any designer hired to take the helm of an iconic brand, then, on top of that, follow a very charismatic creative (if troubled) genius is not in an enviable position.  You have to remember to stay “on-brand” and be consistent to the label and image.  You also want to make your statement and show that you are not in the shadow of your predecessor or the runner-up…

Mr. Simons handled his first collection by paying homage to some of Dior’s signature silhouettes from the 1950’s.  Flared skirts with nipped in waists were a nod to the famous “New Look”, while embroidered, mini dress/tops were worn over slim black trousers, a trend taken from today’s city streets. 

While I found the collection very pretty and wearable, I also found it safe.  The silhouettes were universally flattering, bright solid colors could not offend anyone.  The embroidered floral patterns were elegant and feminine enough to appease the most conservative of customers. There were many looks of demure, basic black.

As a designer, one yearns for the chance to show the world your vision.  While being the creative director of Dior is a dream job, one wonders if Simon’s wings were clipped just from the pressure.  The world was waiting with baited breath no matter what came down the runway.  He could have showed any fashion statement he wanted. 

Haute Couture is not about restraint.  The House of Dior did not become the iconic fashion brand it has been by avoiding risks.  Couture is about excess and not worrying about the price tag.  Am I asking too much when I want to see a show that reflects that?

Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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