Paris Street Style 2016 -Haute Couture Week

Shooting Haute Couture was a dream come true for me. The rest of the week was spent enjoying the real life personal style of the Parisian fashion crowd. Catching street style in the shows, outside of the fashion shows, backstage and at parties was a glimpse of how the fashion crowd dresses on this side of the ocean. I found that there was a relaxed vibe to most Paris citizens with a bit of rock n' roll. Skinny jeans and pants were often paired with long draped jackets and shawls for the ladies.

Two musts for Paris street style. The first, you MUST have a long scarf. The skills to artfully drape it around your neck is essential. This wasn't just around Paris fashion week, this was for all of Paris, as my husband observed. Second was the jacket worn as a cape. I saw this with any jacket. It could be the oversized topper, the moto jacket, the blazer or any Haute Couture creation encrusted with 20 000 manual labor hours of beading. To be fair, the jacket and scarf could be due to the uncharacteristically cold summer that Paris has been having. The chic identifiers were supremely practical.

Again, it could just be that it was cold this week, but fur accessories were a key element in Paris Fashion Week looks. Fur wraps, collars, keychains, handbags were all there. How warm they actually kept you could be debated. I suspect it was more for psychological warmth.

Prints, more prints, head-to-toe, a graphic dance all over the streets of Paris. While this look dominates photographer's street style shots of women, it has made its way into menswear street style as well. The big patterned statement jacket, pants or even jumpsuit have been spotted on the gents near Paris Fashion Week

The moto jacket is still huge in Paris. The difference is there were very tailored or sculpted silhouette styles or crazy color combinations because they were likely to be high-end designer renditions of them. Often, they were paired with a super feminine dress or designer skirt as a way to add some edge to a classically beautiful outfit.

So there you have it, my top Haute Couture Paris street style trends. They are all easy to incorporate into your own wardrobe. Get shopping!

Check out PFW Haute Trend Roundup

by Ms. Fabulous at Mode

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Haute Couture: Guo Pei Fall Winter 2016/2017

Being in Paris for Haute Couture is the life goal of any fashion fan. I attended Chinese designer Guo Pei's stunning Haute Couture Fall 2016/2017 show at the Bourse de Commerce near The Louvre. Like NYFW, I embedded myself into the photographer's pit to shoot these works of art.

The inspiration for this season was the theme of "Encounter", dreams and karma. The central motif was her signature dragon. You could see this running through in the serpentine silhouettes. There were long, slinky embroidered gowns that were tailored tightly to the body and ended in an exaggerated train. The massive train is one detail that fashion fans Stateside recognize from this designer. Rihanna wore one of the biggest trains in red carpet history at the 2015 Met Gala in Guo Pei's yellow dress. 

The other silhouettes were equally dramatic. From the sharply built up shoulders to the innovative pleating details that emulate the folds of a Chinese paper lantern. There were ballgowns to elaborate; it would make Cinderella drool with envy. If you were a Disney princess, the glittering headpieces would make you proud. These pieces were sculptures unto themselves. These looked like crystals and feathers that grew up and out organically to frame the face. The intricate embroidery deserves close-up examination. It is incredibly detailed. Each sequin and jewel were hand-sewn. The gold dress at the top along took over 20 000 hours of manual labor to complete by artisans. There were a few dark, almost Gothic dresses with a bit of 1930's film noir looks contrasted with the sparkling gold dresses and white gowns. 

This was a historical show as Guo Pei is the first Chinese designer recognized by the Chambre Syndicale in Haute Couture. She was also named one of Time Magazine's 100 most influential people. Her gowns in the Met Gala exhibit, China Through the Looking Glass (one of the few by an actual Chinese designer) revolutionized how people viewed Chinese fashion as a whole, rather than a manufacturing hub.

As fantastical as many of the looks were, there were cocktail dresses and evening wear that was quite wearable for a special evening. Many of Guo Pei' fans were attired in her work in the audience. I absolutely expect more celebrities to wow in these looks at next year's red carpet. Bravo on a stunning show!

all photos by Mariana Leung

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Haute Couture: Elsa Schiaparelli Spring 2015

Not-so-shocking pink was the backdrop to the Elsa Schiaparelli Haute Couture collection for spring 2015. The runway color was a reminder that the famous Italian's spirit was in the house, but the label is moving forward.

There was a distinct Middle Eastern aesthetic in the styling of the fashion show with the jeweled Fez has and draped shawls. Other than that, each ensemble had its own look. Signature Schiaparelli touches were handmade, three dimensional embellishments like the top of overlapping organza stars, large jeweled embroidery that looked like it was executed in a random pattern (but probably the artisan's personal constellation). In fact, each look seemed to have a personal story from the makers or designers with outfit names like "Seamstress in Love" "Battle of Pins" or "Atelier Games". I would love to watch the behind-the-scenes video on the events that inspired that.

There were gorgeous examples of sculptured millinery which I'm sure will be a hit with the Brits. The atelier's own padlock hardware marked the handbags. Jewelry had a similar collaged look with fused metal and jewels. Tailoring was a prominent feature of this collection, but the label took great care to make it look ultra feminine.

It's lovely to see this label back on the Haute Couture runways. I would like to think Elsa Schiaparelli is looking down from her atelier in the sky and smiling.
photos provided by Schiaparelli

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Haute Couture: Armani Prive Spring Summer 2015

I’m calling the spring 2015 Armani Prive collection of Haute Couture the Straw and Hay show. I know I can clearly see that the big poles on the runway are a hyper modern representation of bamboo. I can see that bamboo is a running motif along with Asian details like wide obi belts.

The super chill palettes of deep navy, grey and herbal green are elegant in that expected Armani way. It is the shiny fabrics, loopy fringe, stiff reedy fringe that I didn’t expect. As sophisticated an image as Giorgio Armani has cultivated, the man does have a sense of humor. I like that he mixed some contemporary, almost nutty novelty pieces with his uber sleek socialite bait. This is a man who played an Italian Prime Minister on Saturday Night Live and then told the host “nice suit” after all. He is a man who was not offended when a snarky reporter asked “Why always beige?”.

Giorgio Armani often likes to include botanical patterns of some sort, so an exotic bamboo leaf was this season’s winner. Instead of literal kimono sleeves or wraps that many other designers have done, the evening gowns had interesting pleats or asymmetrical hems. In fact, the fuller silhouettes on the catwalk took its muse more from a Korean Jaegori than what most people think is a kimono.

With all the wide obi belts on the runway this year, I’m wondering how many buckle makers have filed for bankruptcy. The models hair was slicked, and parted down the middle in a severe style. Some models wore huge statement earrings or none at all.

The Armani Prive Haute Couture collection was the gorgeous Giorgio Armani show you wanted it to be with some fun surprises!

Photos from FirstView/FashionWeekDaily

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Schiaparelli Couture Fall 2014

Welcome the return of the "Italian", Schiaparelli Haute Couture.  The whimsical atelier made its return to the Haute Couture shows after a 60 year hiatus (not counting collaborations with Lacroix and others).

Designer Marco Zanini was tasked with updating the collection for modern times.  The label’s signature “shocking pink” was incorporated into a long gown or floor length swing coat.  Elsa Schiaparelli’s love nature motifs were seen all over this group.  There were ivy and leaves in the jewelry.  Hand painted prints included beautiful, but tongue-in-cheek urban animals like pigeons, squirrels and rats.  Flourished embroideries and dimensional embellishments are trademarks of the brand, but very contemporary in this collection.

The built up shoulder was a classic Schiaparelli shape, being used to elongate and give a Hollywood femme fatale look to many of the sleek, full length silhouettes on this runway. 

Fur was used in oversized handbag clutches.  Glycerine treated feathers were worked together for a bolero that emulated monkey fur.  Hats took the form of vintage shapes like feathered caps and turbans.  There were gravity-defying sculptures and even a luxe birthday party hat.

I love seeing the spirit of Elsa Schiaparelli back in today’s fashion scene.  Is it a little wicked of me to wish that Marco Zanini would prank Karl Lagerfeld to restart the Chanel/Schiaparelli rivalry? 

Photos courtesy of Schiaparelli Paris

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Jean Paul Gaultier: Sidewalk to the Catwalk

Disturbing, provocative, delightful.  All of the above and more was found at the Brooklyn Museum's The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk exhibit.

Gaultier created some of the most iconic looks of my generation.  Everyone recognizes the cone cup corsets of Madonna's Blond Ambition Tour .  Fashion fans have marveled at the varied inspirations and theatrical runway shows over the years.

The exhibit itself was not your typical, institutional retrospective you would expect from a museum.  Upon entering the first gallery, you are startled when you gaze at the mannequins and find them blinking or even glaring back at you.  The "Virgins" collection had mannequins singing, wearing dresses inspired by religious icons.  The mermaids on the other side were adorned in mother of pearl and golden filigree.

The designer's mastery of intimate and apparel were displayed in a long dark corridor on spinning dress forms so you could see the painstaking details that went into each and every piece.

The gallery of punk style had elaborate creations in denim and tartan.  A moving runway displayed cheeky looks like a cancan dress that was painted with legs on the interior, but looked like a more conservative white ruffled dress on the outside.  The punk mannequins could make you jump, whispering that they were "behind you" as you observed other parts of the room.

Gorgeous looks worn by the likes of singers like Beth Ditto were part of a gallery that showed the diversity of age, body shape and ethnicity that the designer liked to portray on the runway.  Another room showed the global influences of design that made their way to his shows.  One of the most impressive looks in this room was the Asian-inspired look of his first collection that he put together with straw placements from the local market before he had the money to fund more expensive fabrics.

While Jean Paul Gaultier clearly took craftmanship and design very seriously, his own persona was another matter.  A talking mannequin of himself hosted the exhibit and the attitude of his catwalks always showed a sense of fun.  Photographs or interviews with him always portrayed a winking sensibility that I enjoyed.

This exhibit is a must-see and one of my favorites in recent years.  Get yourself to the Brooklyn Museum before February 23, 2014!

exhibit photographs by Mariana Leung

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Dior Haute Couture Fall 2013

Raf rules! I have to admit, I was one of the skeptics when I watched Raf Simon's first outing for Christian Dior.  However, I was impressed on several fronts with his recent Fall 2013 Haute Couture collection for Dior.

First, the color combinations were gorgeous.  It seems simple, but the mix of black, cool pastels with contrast brights looked super modern.

Second, after lots of media scrutiny across the fashion industry about diversity, the runway here had more models of color than any catwalk in recent history.  The multiculturalism did not end there.  The silhouettes and some of the embroideries clearly had their influences in different ethnic cultures with some asymmetrical kimono shapes or puckered silk technique.  There were also draped shoulder details and sequin lines with roots from traditional African garb. What I liked was that the influences were not literal, but a hyper-contemporary, minimalist take on these muses.

Third, many young designers feel the burden to create collections that rely heavily on the brand's past to make sure they are staying true to the namesake legacy.  This collection managed to evoke the spirit of the "New Look" without actually having to trot out something from 1947.  Sure there were some dresses that could be called a ballgown, but beyond the flare of the skirt, it was completely modern.

One of my criticisms of his previous collection was that it looked too much like sportswear and that it couldn't justify the price tag.  I realized that my thinking was very dated.  It took this collection to make me realize that Haute Couture did not need to be tons and tons of fabric and hand embellishment , for luxury, it just needs to make you feel like a modern queen...

Photos from IMAXtree

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Norisol Ferrari - Bespoke Punk Couture

 I met my new fashion heroine last week.  Her name is Norisol Ferrari.  She is a strong, Amazonian woman who makes no excuses for her super luxurious sable coats and makes no compromises in her quality and fit. She is often compared to Alexander McQueen, which she does not agree with, except to say they both are inspired by mens' tailoring and military uniforms.  Instead, she cites more historical references like Dior's New Look that she finds to be a muse, except she updates it with modern materials and some edgier gang references.  

She has very strong opinions on how many designers try to infantilize women.  She builds clothes for a woman's shape with an almost warrior-like passion.  Norisol has images of Frida Kahlo and Louise Brooks on her office wall.  She has trinkets and carved skulls from her travels and a wall of taxidermy to show her darker muses. 

Norisol proudly produces her collection with trusted artisans in New York.  She refuses to sell out or tailor her label to anything less than what truly inspires her, regardless of cost.  In this day of outsourcing and penny counting, her fashion manifesto is an career to look up to.

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Dior Haute Couture Draws from Illustration Legend Rene Gruau

Rene Gruau was a legendary artist who elevated the craft of fashion illustration into fine art.  His paintings graced posters, magazines like Vogue and Harper's Bazaar and some of the most iconic fashion advertising of the century.  My illustration professors at Parsons worshipped him along with many of my fellow students.

The illustrator's work was the main muse behind John Galliano's latest Haute Couture collection for Christian Dior.  The exaggerated silhouettes with dramatic lipstick and hair sashayed down the runway to the awe of clients and colleagues alike.  Voluminous ballgowns swirled in organza.  Wispy feathers and intricate embroidery embellished heads and dresses.  The retro or classic nipped waist that is Dior's signature look made a welcome comeback.  The show was presented at the Musee Bourdelle, appropriate for the sculptures of clothing Galliano intended to display.  Some of the classic "Miss Dior" campaigns of earlier years were painted by Gruau.

For any of you who think that a timeless artist is too high brow for every day inspiration... One of my husband's favorite comic books, Tim Sale's Catwoman: When in Rome also credits it's creative direction to Gruau.

Spotted in the front row: Mario Testino, Azzedine Alaia, Patrick Demarchelier, Marisa Berensen

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Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Spring 2011

Are you a fashion geek like me and followed Jean Paul Gaultier through the years?  If you did, you would have loved his most recent Haute Couture showing.  It mixed the elaborate silhouettes, miles of silk tulle and dramatic head pieces he is known for.

This collection had some punk influence, some Can-Can surprises and wildly colorful prints.  A certain flamenco influence that we have seen before made its way to some of the looks.  While thumping DJ sets are expected at most fashion shows these days, Gaultier bucked the standard and surprised everyone with an elegant Catherine Deneuve.  Her voice announced each look verbally in the tradition of Haute Couture's classic presentations.

Accessories included the dramatic feathered mohawks of course.  Some of the models sported the JPG and Alain Mikli collaborative group of eyeglasses.

Spotted in the Front Row: Pedro Almodovar, Ines de la Fressange
Images from Firstview

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Armani Prive Couture Spring 2011

The future is here....And Armani owns it.  Armani Prive put out a sleek, shimmering collection from the far reaches of the galaxy.  The skirts and dresses were long, slim and body conscious.  The fabrics were reflective or metallic.  The sci-fi type effects were achieved with metal threads woven into silk.  Organza was give a mirror-like finish.  

Accessories were a range of flying saucer type hats by Philip Treacy. There matching reflective clutch handbags paired with over-sized jewels..  Lipstick was a deep eggplant for a severe, futuristic look.

Critics were divided on this collection.  Giorgio Armani was always synonymous with the color beige, classic elegance and timeless sophistication.  This collection diverted away from that.  It might alienate some die-hard fans, but gain some new aliens in the process...(sorry, cheap one, I know.) I personally loved it.  Some of the silhouettes were a little tough for a non-model like me to wear, but something I can aspire to?  I loved the color palette and textures.  

Spotted in the Front Row: Jodie Foster, Sophia Loren, Olivia Wilde

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