Welcome the return of the "Italian", Schiaparelli Haute Couture. The whimsical atelier made its return to the Haute Couture shows after a 60 year hiatus (not counting collaborations with Lacroix and others).
Designer Marco
Zanini was tasked with updating the
collection for modern times. The label’s
signature “shocking pink” was incorporated into a long gown or floor length
swing coat. Elsa Schiaparelli’s love
nature motifs were seen all over this group.
There were ivy and leaves in the jewelry. Hand painted prints included beautiful, but
tongue-in-cheek urban animals like pigeons, squirrels and rats. Flourished embroideries and dimensional
embellishments are trademarks of the brand, but very contemporary in this
collection.
The built up shoulder was a classic
Schiaparelli shape, being used to elongate and give a Hollywood femme fatale
look to many of the sleek, full length silhouettes on this runway.
Fur was used in oversized handbag
clutches. Glycerine treated feathers
were worked together for a bolero that emulated monkey fur. Hats took the form of vintage shapes like
feathered caps and turbans. There were
gravity-defying sculptures and even a luxe birthday party hat.
I love seeing the spirit of Elsa
Schiaparelli back in today’s fashion scene.
Is it a little wicked of me to wish that Marco Zanini would prank Karl
Lagerfeld to restart the Chanel/Schiaparelli rivalry?
Photos courtesy of Schiaparelli Paris
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