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Tuesday, September 10, 2013

NY FASHION WEEK: Vivienne Tam Spring 2014

vivienne tam spring 2014
vivian tam new york

Vivienne Tam took the city out of the girl and placed it right on her back. She opened the show with a city silhouette backdrop. Possibly Shanghai, home of Tam’s inspiration for this season’s collection?

Tam begun her 40 piece collection with crisp, simple forms, balanced by intricate lotus flower patterns, thoroughly evident in each incorporated look. The first few looks’ black and white palette leveled the detail of patterns.

This collection was all about delicate subtlety, the barely-there cutouts whose existence takes a second glance to confirm. From printed lotus shirt to short pleated skirt, the A-line cut dominated most looks.

What I’ve also noticed trending in other shows is the conservative top form. Straight or horizontal, high necklines and collars covered up what the midriffs and short skirts reveal.

Colours evolved from simple black and white, to pastels, to loud blood orange, to a blue and green hue, with a return to the black and white in the last two looks. The well executed color gradation allowed a successful progression and change without overpowering the elaborate cutout flower patterns, free form slash lines and the occasional  (one time) sheer top print image.

Tam’s success came through her collection sequence, I felt I evolved with the collection, moved from day to night with the exquisite color movement.

I loved the simple structure of the pieces, free flowing and fitted. Simple shoes and lack of accessories helped propel and focus the eye towards intriguing colors and slick cuts. Remember, less is more!                                      - Niko Nelson
original photos by David TW Leung

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