Linder Spring 2019

How do you feel about a fashion salon/parent's basement vibe for an NYFW fashion show? Linder Spring 2019 was presented in a compact room at the Standard Hotel where far too many people were packed in. What was probably intended as an intimate presentation got too close for comfort when the place was over capacity and photographers were blocked from taking any sort of clear photos.
That's too bad when the overall concept was cute in theory. The wood paneling suited the 1970s vibe of the long, calf-length skirts, slim shirts, oversized pockets, and leather details. The Linder collection made use of contrast leather trims, earthy colored patterns like stripes and plaid, and flat, boxy flip-flops to convey a young, casual, nostalgic look. Models strolled (or attempted to) down the middle of the room and walked up a few steps to pose in front of a triple mirror. If the room had 85% fewer people in it, this would have looked great.
Indie designers, while trying hard to do something to distinguish themselves from the pack, need to remember that 99% of the people who will ever see your collection will be doing so through photographs. There is such a tiny percentage of your future customer base will be in that room, at that exact hour. You are most likely to send images to prospective retailers and media contacts that will be able to do anything of value for you, so is it wise to keep the most qualified people that take those images obstructed?

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Zang Toi Spring 2019 - Vive Le Yves

I know sing designer Zang Toi's praises every season. For Spring 2019, I felt he created this entire runway show directly for me (because I am vain and narcissistic). Why? This beautiful collection incorporated a bunch of my favorite things.
First, the collection was a tribute to Yves Saint-Laurent. Granted, the late designer was an inspiration to most people in fashion so I won't assume this was picked for me. Zang Toi referenced the designer in several ways. First, the Mondrian-inspired prints were a motif in the flowing silks of the show. Some of Saint-Laurent's most iconic looks were also inspired by Mondrian. Second, the intense blue color is reminiscent of the hues found in the Jardin Majorelle, the gardens in Morocco founded by the designer. The hipster scarves worn by the models are also taking inspiration from the Bedouin women who live in Morocco.
Why else did this collection seem personal to me? I love butterflies. I wore tons of them on my head and wore the wings for the NYC Easter Parade. Now Toi has them fluttering all over the purple (my favorite color) and pink gowns in showstopper section of the show.
The soundtrack? It's like he stole my iPod. Grace Jones' Libertango played over the runway with the models sauntering out like the queens they are. One of his consistent star models, Georgie Badiel, was recently married and had her new husband sitting in the audience. Zang Toi himself walked her down the aisle during the wedding.
The reason so many photographers are so loyal to shooting this show when there are many other shows competing in the same time slot is how thoughtful Toi is to us. He collaborates with photographers on lighting and model staging rather than dictating the conditions like many other producers do, leaving photographers to scramble and hope for the best. He sent out care packages to the photographers, with a (much needed) snack and water, with the bonus of his gorgeous Papyrus couture greeting cards. 
Thank you Zang Toi, for gifting us another wonderful show for Spring 2019. It was extra special as you clearly custom designed the collection around me (ha!). Kidding aside, butterflies, blue gardens and Yves Saint-Laurent, how could you go wrong?

all photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Pamella Roland Spring 2019

One expects and wants to see flowers in Spring fashion collections. Pamella Roland's Spring 2019 show did not disappoint. There were beautiful flower brocades in cheery yellow blooms made into jackets, cocktail dresses and gowns. The cheerful palette continued into embroidered feather fringe with beading, then swirling gowns of silk.
Other happy colors included rich fuschia pink and sky blue. There were gowns with masterful manipulations of fabric into ruffles and pleating. There were delicately embroidered florals of organic vines. This was the collection where Pamella Roland aspired to an Haute Couture look with the muse of her Bali travels to inspire the colors and lightweight fabrics.
On the other hand, her sleek, New York socialite on-the-move looks were still well represented. Think slim, tailored suits in bright colors. Sleek pencil skirt sheaths and fitted gowns with mermaid silhouettes. These were all ready for Real Housewives and other heiresses (Nicky Hilton) to wear to hit the red carpet, ( I counted four wives today).
This is glamor for the crowd who doesn't worry about what to wear to the office, because she doesn't really work for a living (maybe for fun). It must be nice.
Pamella Roland Spring 2019 had some of the most beautiful dresses I have seen from the designer in the many seasons I have followed the brand. I hope to wear one someday.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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NYBFW: Adam Zohar Bridal Spring 2019

While Royal weddings are on many peoples minds this season, Adam Zohar understands that not every bride is striving to be the perfect princess. Not every bride wants the palace-styled catering hall or the perfect coiffure. Some brides have piercings and tattoos. Some don't want the perfectly symmetrical traditional gown. That's who Adam Zohar appealed to for his 2019 collection.

Gowns were sexy, with some silhouettes fashioned after old-school undergarments or billowing loose ballgowns. Embroidery and applique embellishments were deliberately asymmetrical across the body or only on one side. Some models were nose rings, showing even the rebel girl could opt to be a pretty bride on her terms.

The inclusive attitude continued through to the show venue. Zohar chose the gritty warehouse ambiance of the aptly named Industria studios. The raw space was one that felt open to any possibility without any pretension, in contrast to the palace vibe many other designers opt for. During the show, the designer kept the big garage doors open to the street so anyone could walk in and enjoy the show as well. Again, a stark contrast to the tightly edited (and enforced) guest list of most fashion shows.

The Adam Zohar 2019 bridal collection was immensely detailed and beautiful. However, even though they were elaborate works of art, I felt like the bride wearing could run on the beach or roll in the grass and he wouldn't be offended. For the pretty and punk girl.

all photos by Mariana Leung

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NYBFW: Theia Bridal Spring 2019

Who hasn't dreamt of being a Princess Bride? The Theia Bridal Spring 2019 collection at NY Bridal Fashion Week was a celebration of European queens and princesses, iconic and modern. By modern, this means brides of all shapes, lifestyles and sizes, who were represented on his runway.

Each gown had different cuts, style lines to create dramatic silhouettes that flattered different areas of the wearer. Elegant embroidery was designed to also accentuate the curves of the body. There was a regal sophistication to every look from this collection that hinted at princesses of history (as each gown was named after) but with a thoroughly contemporary execution.

Designer Don O'Neill has always been thoughtful in designing gowns for real women. From creating his signature laser-cut fabric paillettes for comfort to his little tricks of draping to give extra ease in areas where the wearer might feel self-conscious to the ever-important "bra-friendly" styling that customers want. His record with celebrities as diverse as Gabourey Sidibe to Carrie Underwood has demonstrated his skill in making everyone look beautiful.

I sighed when I saw the jeweled tiaras. Who wants a veil when you have a princess crown? While I don't have any photos of the flowers, Fleur de Pascal's creations belonged in palace.

For anyone who can't wait for the Royal Wedding this May, they got their fill from this gorgeous show!

Photos courtesy of Theia.

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