#LFW: Faustine Steinmetz Denim Mermaids

Faustine Steinmetz is a relatively new fashion label. The designer studied both in Paris and London, then worked with Jeremy Scott and Henrik Vibskov before launching on her own. Her Spring 2017 presentation was a study in different ways you can create crafted denim masterpieces.

When you know a designer is going to do a presentation as opposed to a runway show; it usually isn't that eventful. London Fashion Week has proven me wrong. Steinmetz had her models reclined in giant cubbyholes in the walls, lit with blue light. The effect was like seeing an exhibit of living mermaids in their aquarium. The models' faces were made up in various shades of unearthly blue with body glitter over all different body parts.

The clothing itself had tailored dark indigo denim separates, printed jackets, hand woven, dyed ombre piece. There were embroidered pieces or fringed. The entire collection served to make you think of denim differently.

To add to the captured mermaid theme, some models wore jewelry and shoes that looked like they were embedded into rock with quartz crystals jutting out of it. These were clearly more for styling and artistic expression than for practical wearing, but they were striking nonetheless.

This presentation was at the Old Spitalfields Market, a historical market dating back to the 1880s. It now houses designer boutiques, vintage flea market, indie designer pop-ups and gourmet food stalls in East London. This venue was also home to the up-and-coming fashion designers of London Fashion Week. It seemed to be the British equivalent of the Milk Studios space at NYFW.

Congratulations Faustine Steinmetz on your innovative exhibit. You managed to make me rethink both the fashion presentation format AND denim as a fashion category at the same time. Good luck!

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#LFW: Mary Katrantzou Spring 2017

Do you want to see color? Mary Katrantzou has more color on her spring 2017 runway than any collection I have shot this year. The designer is known for her spectacular prints. For this season, her intricate prints took on psychedelic patterns, geometric shapes and the wild colors of the 1960s. It looked like my fantasy of London of that era, nostalgic for my Dad's memories of the city at that time during his school days.

The spiraling, twisting patterns not only were printed but were layered and embroidered to create a three-dimensional quality to the look. There were acrylic and mirror bottoms and tops that were made of linked pieces cut to match the shapes of the fabric prints, reminding me of vintage Paco Rabanne pieces.

There were long, skinny pants, short skirts with A-line or fishtail hems. Singular statement frocks found their sister outfit in long belted skirt and sweater combos. The 1960's "Mod" theme was also accompanied by the theme of Grecian or Minoan Goddesses. The human imagery depicted artwork of people in ancient times with a color palette for 2016. Ladies could be bathing or a battle scene decorated the lower half of a blazer. Oversized birds were embroidered onto tops.

The clutch handbags on this runway were just as interesting. Each Lucite clutch was stylized into a letter of the alphabet. At first glance, the letter may not have been obvious, like the "t" bag which had a profile of an alphabet letter but looked like a marbled surface purse from the sides. Other bags looked like signage.

Whether you are a textile designer, crafter or stylist, you could find a lot of inspiration at this show. Mary Katrantzou works her magic on the loud, beautiful pieces of her Spring 2017 collection. She brought back Britain's Swinging sixties. I love that every person I met at London Fashion Week LFW looks like they would fit right in. I hope to see much more of Mary as the seasons go by.
All photos by Mariana Leung

More from Ms. Fabulous:

Julien Macdonald Spring 2017

Big British Invite

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#LFW: Gareth Pugh Spring 2017

Exceptional fashion is operatic. Designer Gareth Pugh has combined them both. He designed 60 of the costumes of the recently debuted Eliogabalo in Paris for the Venice Carnival Festival. Written by Francesco Cavalli, the opera tells the story of a tyrannical child emperor who declared himself the Sun God. Aside from the costume work, the production inspired much of Pugh's Spring 2017 collection. "He's an agent of chaos, a crowded anarchist, emerging amid a climate of greed and narcissism. It's essentially about an empire eating itself - which felt alarmingly relevant." With the American political climate the way that it is, you would think he was talking about our election.

How did this muse influence the fashion collection specifically? The first group of looks consisted of dramatic silhouettes around a gold and black sun. The black sun represented a gaping void as a reference to Francis Bacon's Innocent X. According to Pugh, it was the "ultimate symbol of insatiable hunger and consumption". The beautiful gold mosaic embellishments symbolize the fractured idea of wealth and chaos.

The second group makes way for the most commercial looks of the show. Monochromatic  purple, white and black looks were draped and twisted beautifully onto the body. The effect was like a contemporary Goddess. It was relaxed and flowing. I would be happy to fill my entire close with these looks.

The third group saw the gold and black sun evolve into an earthy sunburst. The graphic pattern now stood for the idea of renewal, mysticism, and fertility. The silhouettes here were cocoon-like as opposed to the rigid, structured shapes of the gold mosaic group. The sun's rays worked its way into a stripe on some of the looks.

The Gareth Pugh Spring 2017 was one of the shows I was most looking forward to when I knew I would travel to London. I didn't know if I would see human harnesses, intellectual Goth or a cocktail dress made of straws. I just knew it would be impressive and unexpected. I am happy to say I was not disappointed.

All photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:
The Tutu Project
Exclusive Interview with Costume Designer Colleen Atwood

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#LFW: Julien Macdonald Spring 2017

Yesss, this is why I came to London Fashion Week. Bold, British Punk. The Julien Macdonald runway show gave me all of the studs, spikes, metal chains and hardware I could wish for. Hailey Baldwin opened and closed the show with her signature strut down a giant gymnasium.

Models' limbs were greased up to show off super long legs and muscled arms. Men were styled with open shirts and jackets. Pants were tight to show off their physique. Military jackets were paired with the shortest of shorts. Beautifully beaded sheer dresses could have beaded or metal chain fringe. Shirts, jackets, and dresses could act as metal all on their own from their embellishment.

Since New York has lost most of its Rock n' Roll vibe, I was very happy to see it here. The guests themselves added to the atmosphere. Equally edgy celebs like singer Elle Eyre and Empire's Serayah were in attendance with model Abbey Clancy along with eccentric characters hoping for street style recognition.

Thank you Julien Macdonald, your runway show brought some punk back into my life!

All photos by Mariana Leung

Also on Ms. Fabulous:

Punk: Chaos to Couture

Jean Paul Gaultier: Sidewalk to Catwalk

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#LFW: Ryan Lo Spring 2017

I landed in London. Unfortunately, my luggage, camera gear and clothing did not. I am not even able to refresh in my hotel room yet. Luckily, London Fashion Week will have me and the fanciful collection of Ryan Lo brightened up my day with this candy colored collection. I apologize for the subpar photos as I was only armed with my phone today.

The soundrack included everything from Disney's Aladdin to The Bangle's Walk Like An Egyption. The runway was decorated with extra-long metallic streamers. The models were styled like wide eyed dolls. The designer drew upon exotic locales, Venetian clowsn, genies and Japanese chilhood character Chibi Maruko Chan. 

Ryan Lo is known for lots of ruffles and super girly looks. There was a harem pant or two thrown in. I think I am obsessed with the adorable teapot print that was used in the fabric. I can't think of anything that screams London more than that. The feathered tricorn hats struck a dramatic look on the runway paired with the model's doll-like makeup. These hats were a collaboration with milliner Stephen Jones for a romantic pirate vibe.

The little bags of Turkish delight left as treats on the seats of the fashion show lined what the designer called his "anime desert runway". He dedicated the collection to late fashion hero Sonia Rykiel. 

Happy London Fashion Week and congratulations Ryan Lo on your Sprint 2017 show. Your collection brought a smile to my face like nothing else today. 

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Maison Margiela's Spring Summer 2015 Cabinet of Curiosities

A prodigal son returns to the runway. John Galliano staged his comeback show on behalf of Maison Margiela towards the end of London’s menswear week. A large group of colleagues and contemporaries like designers Alber Elbaz and photographer Nick Knight attended the show in support.

In chatting with my own social group, it was clear that people were torn on how much they wanted to like the collection based on Galliano’s past offensive outbursts. How “Margiela” would the show contain, versus how much “Dior” or “Galliano” he would inject into the show?

Die hard fashion design fans wanted to look past the designer’s offenses and judge the show on merit. The verdict was that the show was a combination of all of the above. The title of the show was “Artisanal”. This was a reference to the hand tailoring, deconstruction and construction of an intricately made garment and his Haute Couture experience. However, I personally felt that the word “artisanal” has been overused in branding these days. I see it used for everything from Mom-made cookies to mass market mustard, even if these clothes earned the adjective more than most.

The catwalk looks themselves did show the abstract tailoring and dark edge that I remember loving in the 1990s. My fellow Parsons students and I worshiped labels like Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester and Helmut Lang for their avant-garde aesthetic. John Galliano respected the label’s history and elevated the deconstructed tailoring with couture touches. Shredded fabric edges were paired with exquisite jackets. Built up corsets had a Gothic silhouette, and then paired with harlequin tights. There is that one red leather 'face' dress outfit that literally looks like someone's demons pushing their way out.

Some fans I talked to felt like it didn't go far enough, yet some said it was too commercial. To me, that means John Galliano got it right. Runway looks are not meant to be worn exactly as styled. Each curiosity in this cabinet could be treasured on its own merit. If curiosity killed the cat, satisfaction in a good collection brings it, and the rest of the fashion crowd back.

 photos courtesy of Maison Margiela

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Selfridges presents Britain's BRIGHT young THinGS

London is swinging again with energy. Fabulous shopping  starts on Oxford Street and continues for  miles to eclectic stores like Burberry, Ted Baker and Timberland on nearby on Regent Street. The wide streets are brimming with the famous red double decker buses. The mix of high/low and in-between fashion brings trendy teens, cool 20 somethings and design students from the nearby school together to create a frenetic pace of shoppers in every version of chic.

My favorite  store remains  Selfridges which turned 101 years old this year. It is one of the iconic British brands of department stores. Surprisingly, this icon of British retail was founded by none other than Harry Gordon Selfridge of Wisconsin, USA. 

We were recently in London and  the fantastic Selfridges stole my heart. The retailer is the definition of posh chic which defines London. The store stretches from basement level to six floors. It houses fine wine, scrumptious desserts and fresh cut roses. There are hard to find Brit brands as as well as the ubiquitous Prada,  Gucci and the mix of other global designer brands.

The 2011 Bright Young Things Designers

If you make it to London, you must check out the wonderful store windows that face Oxford street.  Selfridges has selected the 2011 new stars of fashion under an window presentation called "Bright YoungThings" which feature an eclectic mix of designers from from mixed media artists to clothing designers. These designers are the new talents of the UK.  Selfridges is introducing them to the world via their provocative windows  as well as showcasing limited edition pieces in pop-up shopson-line sales.

Mixed media artist Alex Noble

To go with the theme of Bright Young Things, Selfridges also featured  The John Hour, a collective of three artists  to show their visual talents in whimsical installations filled with displays of brass musical instruments to  vintage movie house chairs hanging mid air.

Illustrator Sophie Stephens

The emphasis is on new and fun which is what Spring 2011 should be all about.

Knitwear designer Craig Lawrence

Do what we did, buy an air ticket and escape the New York winter and catch a whiff of spring weather and shopping mania in London and definitely go to Selfrdiges.  And, remember, there is the more affordable and even cooler Miss Selfridges within the store.

The color of the bright  yellow shopping bags will make you forget this is still a damn, long winter and no one needs to know whether you just bought macrons for under $10 or Lanvin for more than a few pretty sterling pounds….

Installation by The John Hour

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London: Burberry Prorsum Spring 2011

The biker chick is back.  You might not associate classic label Burberry Prorsum with motorcycles, yet that is the customer it originally served in the 1900's.  Director Christopher Bailey brought the collection full circle with some bright colors, biker jackets and animal patterns.

The traditional trench coat was updated with studs or leather details.  One had bold contrast stripes. Another with leather sleeves.  Many were belted with a bright turquoise or lime green belt.  There were several biker jacket/trench hybrids.  Python and leopard their way down the runway.  Shirred and frilly dresses in pastels balanced out the collection with a delicate look.

Accessories included the bright wide belts and coordinating handbags.

Spotted in the front row: Sarah Jessica Parker, Alexa Chung, Mario Testino

Photos courtesy of Style.com

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