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Showing posts with label j mendel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label j mendel. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

J. Mendel Spring 2015 Collaboration with Enoc Perez

j mendel dress
j mendel enoc perez
The most iconic fashion designers in history are the ones that collaborate with fine artists. Gilles Mendel and artist Enoc Perez showed a distinct partnership on the runway for the J. Mendel spring 2015 collection.

The pair joins the ranks of artist/fashion design pairs like Salvador Dali and Elsa Schiaparelli. The clothing on the catwalk was a wearable interpretation of Enoc Perez’s architecture renderings.  His signature cross-hatched paintings were printed on dresses.  There were highly textured woven/embroidered pieces that expressed the pattern.  Even the luxurious furs that are a J. Mendel staple had elements of Perez architecture. 

Less obvious were the flowing, light dresses that floated beautifully when the models walked.  Some of the simple color blocking or solid colored frocks might have taken the spirit of Enoc Perez’s Shapes artwork. 

The handbags were chic, squared off and stylish. Aside from the colors, they shape or finish didn't correspond to the collection and artist inspiration. 

As Gilles Mendel worked with Perez to collaborate on a collection in tribute to his work, the artist in turn created a book of collages as homage to Mendel’s work. With some fashion collections inspired by an artist, the effect is often great for editorial, or even gimmicky.  However this collection was thoroughly wearable and flattering, regardless of if the customer was aware of the muse or not.  With all of the mass market “collaborations” with designers that water down their aesthetic, I love seeing a true creative collaboration that elevates the work of both parties.
photos by Mariana Leung, artwork by Enoc Perez
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Wednesday, August 14, 2013

J. Mendel Fall 2013

j mendel fall 2013
If you're going to do fur for fall, do it well.  The most fashionable of these is multi-generation label J. Mendel. The designer created highly modern pieces for Fall 2013 at NY Fashion Week for today's customer.  Long vests, collars, cuffs and gorgeous handbags are some ways to wear fur today. If you have a moral objection to fur however, there were plenty of luxurious looks that did not involve any animals.
j mendel dress
Metallic brocade separates, long flowing gowns with sequins and elaborate embroidery, bias seamed satin were all elegant details that allowed the J. Mendel client to wrap themselves in the same amount of luxury with or without fur.  
j mendel embroidery
As an embroidery designer, I drooled over these beautiful art deco inspired beading patterns.  Feeling like a contemporary Daisy Buchanan flirting with Gatsby? The embroidery looks so fantastic because of the delicate lines are all running down the curves of the body which is incredibly flattering.

I can's say every look was a success.  There was this one jacket with a fur peplum...What kind of woman wants a thick furry piece wrapped around her waist?  
j mendel purse
The handbags were in traditional silhouettes, but the materials were ultra-luxe, with crocodile, mink, fox and treated leathers.  My personal favorite was that trimmed mink clutch with the jeweled handle.  Love. Want. Christmas is coming...

Will you be incorporating the fur trend into your fall wardrobe?
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Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Elegant Warmth at J. Mendel Fall 2012

Fur was one of the biggest trends for Fall 2012 at NY fashion week.  The family business of J. Mendel has been doing fur for five generations.  For their runway show at Lincoln Center, Gilles Mendel presented a mix of chic evening wear and luxe fur dresses.

The evening looks were a mix of beaded art deco gowns or sexy dresses with strategic cut-outs.  The fur pieces ranged from hip vests to sheared, tailored dresses or cozy coats.  The color palette of this collection was warm, but basic.  Lots of brown tones, mustard, dramatic black and classic ivory went down the runway.

I have a lot of friends who are against fur, and were not too happy with the abundance of it this season.  While I am sympathetic to their views, I am not a vegetarian.  There are native cultures that survive on the fur trade.   There are very few companies where families are willing to continue on the tradition of their ancestors. How do you deny a family their legacy?


Photos by David T.W. Leung
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