Dolce and Gabbana - Couture Debut

One would think keeping your guest list tight (cherished clientele, minimal journalists, a few celebrities like Scarlett Johanssen) would keep drama to a minimum... However the Italian design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana did not disappoint.

The affair opened with theatrical opera (Bellini's Bel Canto).  The runway show itself was held in a former monastery.  Fashion was a mix of huge, romantic lace gowns and fresh bouquets of florals on crisp white dresses.  The summer stateside has been brutal, but Europe has not gone unscathed.  Two overworked tailors, couture customers and guests were reported to have fainted.  

The designers presented their statement against fast fashion.  Handmade Sicilian lace, painstakingly constructed suits and corsets and hand beaded embroideries reminded their guests what Italian luxury could be.

Photo: Jason Lloyd Evans and Greg Kessler courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana

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Chanel Haute Couture - Fall 2012

 Karl's collection for Fall 2012 for the House of Chanel contained a lot of signature elements you expect.  Super luxurious tweeds, coordinated suit pieces, ladylike in a myriad of variations.  This season he added a bit of sparkle to the pantyhose and metallic threads in the fabrics.

Lagerfeld is all about youth culture, yet this particular collection sent mixed messages.  The proportions on some of the looks just looked like they wouldn't flatter anyone, like the over sized coats that made the 00 sized models look enormous.  Some suits looked perfectly at home at what I picture as the Chanel core customer, tiny old, wealthy ladies but not a fashion forward statement.  Then there were looks that looked like an upscale version of Wednesday Addams, black, white, Gothically girlish.

Karl Lagerfeld has reached beyond fashion icon status at this point and he only seems to keep working more... (My favorite moment from a NY Times talk he did a few years back was that when people say he has a lot of class, he explained that it was all "working class").   I have no doubt that no matter what my personal thoughts are on this season, it will be an influencer that trickles down through the rest of the industry for seasons to come.
Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

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Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall 2012

Jean Paul-Gaultier’s couture show earlier this week was hotly anticipated, perhaps as much for the 90 minute delay as the show itself, (based on the Twitter complaints from FT’s Jeanne Beker to NY Times’ Cathy Horyn). 

Mr. Gaultier was the designer to rule the 1990’s.  Madonna’s image has been forever linked to the French couturier’s cone bras and revived again on her current tour. 

For Fall 2012, his Haute Couture collection continued on his gender-bending theme.  There were corseted looks mixed with menswear tailoring.  There were 19^th century references to provocative, cross dressing female author George Sand.  Some Paul Poiret inspired Orientalism touches and fanciful circus themes that reminded me of the romantic novel The Night Circus that I just read.

The overall look was rebellious, sexy, elegant and exquisite in its craftsmanship.  The badboy has long proven he can make good.  I hope he continues to inspire.

 Photos from Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

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Christian Dior Fall 2012 Haute Couture

 Blooming Haute Couture! The Christian Dior show in Paris today was one of the most anticipated presentations in recent years.  It was the debut of Raf Simons as creative director, following the scandal of John Galliano last year. 

The Belgian designer cocooned his guests (which included Marion Cotillard, Jennifer Lawrence, Sharon Stone) in thousands upon thousands of fresh flowers.  The show was spread out over five rooms, each room a different color.  The blooms were said to be a tribute to Mr. Dior’s love of flowers in his day.

Any designer hired to take the helm of an iconic brand, then, on top of that, follow a very charismatic creative (if troubled) genius is not in an enviable position.  You have to remember to stay “on-brand” and be consistent to the label and image.  You also want to make your statement and show that you are not in the shadow of your predecessor or the runner-up…

Mr. Simons handled his first collection by paying homage to some of Dior’s signature silhouettes from the 1950’s.  Flared skirts with nipped in waists were a nod to the famous “New Look”, while embroidered, mini dress/tops were worn over slim black trousers, a trend taken from today’s city streets. 

While I found the collection very pretty and wearable, I also found it safe.  The silhouettes were universally flattering, bright solid colors could not offend anyone.  The embroidered floral patterns were elegant and feminine enough to appease the most conservative of customers. There were many looks of demure, basic black.

As a designer, one yearns for the chance to show the world your vision.  While being the creative director of Dior is a dream job, one wonders if Simon’s wings were clipped just from the pressure.  The world was waiting with baited breath no matter what came down the runway.  He could have showed any fashion statement he wanted. 

Haute Couture is not about restraint.  The House of Dior did not become the iconic fashion brand it has been by avoiding risks.  Couture is about excess and not worrying about the price tag.  Am I asking too much when I want to see a show that reflects that?

Photos by Giovanni Giannoni

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