The 8 Characters You Meet at NYC's Easter Parade

Happy Easter my peeps. The most stylish place in New York City will always be the Easter Parade along Fifth Avenue. The procession is a NYC tradition that dates back for over a century. Celebrities often participate casually. Ordinary folk who rock an amazing bonnet can become a celebrity for the day. You can find me and a bunch of other photographers staked out on the avenue.

There are distinct styles that emerge at every NYC Easter Parade

1. Arts & Crafts
These folks always look like they drove in from the suburbs and spent all night with a glue gun. They mostly use Easter paraphernalia like plastic rabbits, raffia, easter grass and construction paper, though marshmallow peeps were very popular this year. Some look like gallery-worthy sculptures while some are not nearly as successful, (AKA a hot mess). The artsy craftsy type is also a category where parents like to pimp out their kids and their latest art project to the photographers. You'll recognize these by the smug Mom and Dad standing next to them.

2. The Florists
This group raids their florist or backyards to put together intricate botanical arrangements on their head. They can be plastic or silk flowers, but you get extra credit for using fresh blooms in your look. Floral hats are the most popular category with photographers because the designers and artists build them with height and bright colors. Unlike other categories, almost every bonnet that I saw was a success.
Bravo garden style.

3. Eccentrics 
The eccentric characters at the parade are a broad group. You have the quirky older ladies with sculptural hats and a love of style. They are the women that collect art had affairs with Hemingway and goes on long trips to India. They always have a wildly inventive chapeau on their head that betrays the wild woman you can't see. Rosemary Ponzo is their patron saint.

On the other end of the spectrum are the lifetime "artists" who might be homeless, crazy or just incredibly fun. They might have an odd pet or wacky art piece they are dragging through the parade. Parents aren't sure whether to have their kids pose with them or hide them away.

4. Dandy Dogs
In the last few years, I have seen more and more dogs at the parade. They don't look like they are having nearly as good a time as the owners who are basking in the validation of photographer's attention. I am personally not a fan of dogs smaller than my cat tarted-up in plastic flowers and ribbons, but everyone else seems to love it.

5. Drag Queens 
If you are fabulous and the entire world should know it, why wait for the Pride parade or Halloween parade? St. Patrick's Cathedral is the perfect place to wear your Sunday best to honor Ressurection Day, no matter what size dress, or what you have to tuck to wear it.

6. Wannabe Designers
There are always the social workers/bank tellers who moonlight as designers at home in the basement. Those are easy to spot with a group of church ladies wearing crazy hats carrying huge signs advertising their friend's fashion business. They usually squat on a stationary spot on 5th avenue and pose to gain as much exposure for the "designer" as they can.

The variation on the wannabe designer is the wannabe model. Channeling Sylvia from the film La Dolce Vita, the wannabe model will be dancing or posing wildly on 5th avenue hoping for as many photographers clicks as possible. The exaggerated movements are to ensure ample space around her so photographers get a clear shot.

7. Goths
This is an unexpected category during a holiday known for its pastels. Nonetheless, they bring fully accessorized outfits and great hats to the event, but mostly in black. The reputation of Goths being anti-social or unfriendly is not true here. I always find them as happy to pose as everyone else.

8. Vintage Fashionistas
This group is popular for both men and women. They dress for a head to toe look. Choosing chic and elegant over garish and gargantuan. The fashion industry crowd, boutique owners, theater types and literary fans are usually found in this group.

As you can see, this is where I fit in when I dress for the parade. I just don't have the balance skills for a flower pot on my head and my fingers have already seen too many glue gun burns to make a big sculpture. I made the fascinator and added the vintage fur collar to a Holt Renfrew cape my mother gave me.

So there, you have it. All the fashionable, crafty, furry fans of the NYC Easter Parade. Now, which one are you?

All photos by Mariana Leung

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Death Becomes Her at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Did you enjoy your Day of the Dead weekend?  The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s fall fashion exhibit, Death Becomes Her: A Centuryof Mourning Attire brings you a show of Victorian and Edwardian Gothic fashion. 

In the 19^th and early 20^th century, the etiquette of personal style for paying tribute to the dead was dictated by strict fashion rules in polite society.  While in mourning, your attire was expected to follow the latest silhouettes, the most luxurious fabrics you could afford and properly timed colors.  Of course, those colors were mostly black, but after a time, they might evolve to purple, mauve and grey.

New Yorkers are already known for the dominance of black in their wardrobe.  The fashion set claims that black is slimming.  This turned out to be quite practical for new widows, as the silhouettes and colors worn during the mourning period were both flattering and signaled to the rest of society that she was eligible again.

In addition to the clothing on display, there were a lot of historical fashion plates (illustrations)and publications that documented the current trends of mourning styles that were de rigueur (mortis? Haha.)  I particularly loved the mourning jewelry.  There were intricate rings, brooches and necklaces that were embossed with family emblems, tiny photos or finely braided hair of the deceased.  Memento mori if you will.  They were so beautiful; they would make fantastic statement jewelry for contemporary fans. 

The merchandising for this exhibit was perfect.  There was a great selection of books ranging from the expected academic mourning attire and artwork to the whimsical, macabre work of Edward Gorey.  Variations on the mourning jewelry were offered for the fashion fans. 

The exhibit will be available at the Metropolitan Museum of Art until February 1, 2015.  There is also a lecture, Women in Black: Fashioning Mourning in the 19th Century, on Friday, November 21, 2014  at the museum if you want to experience it in depth. 
photos by Mariana Leung

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TORONTO FASHION WEEK: Korhani Home Fall 2013

Disco queens, exotic film divas or Gothic brides?  The elaborate runway show of Korhani Home at Toronto Fashion Week gave you all of the above.  The home textile and interior decor company always puts on one of the most anticipated shows of World Mastercard fashion week for its elaborate styling.

Previous seasons incorporated teacup pigs and live parrots as accessories.  Sadly, no live animals were present on this catwalk.  Instead, the first 'act' was a gorgeous Gothic fantasy of deep purples, soft black, velvet texture, embroidery and ravens.  The models were styled in dramatic dark eye makeup and bride of Frankenstein wigs.

The second movement was inspired by vintage cinema starlets with art nouveau patterns and dusty neutrals and rose colors.  Turbans and feather embellishments were paired with fur-like stoles to evoke sassy ladies ready for their closeup.

The finale was a group inspired by a futuristic version of a Manhattan disco.  Graphic black, white and neon colors were worked into animal prints and Andy Warhol inspired patterns.  The models lined up and posed in their favorite Studio 54 style moves.

Creative director Kirsten Korhani crafted a very entertaining show.  A lot of work considering the fashions on the runway are one of a kind and never meant to be a true clothing collection.  It seems like an elaborate production to put on a fashion show and sell the fashion.  However, after some thought, I realized this company has managed to gain a huge amount of press for a product (rugs) that normally, would be very difficult for anyone to make interesting.  Kudos.

See the full show here.

Photos by David TW Leung

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Immortal Game - Win a Chess Glam Makeover

Can an intellectual game be the muse for edgy fashion?  Noir Tribe Media and fashion designer CLIFFLEE believe so.  I was brought on board to help get the word out on this project.  They are launching their fashion and film collaboration, "The Immortal Game" online.  The movie is inspired by the legendary chess game of 1851.  Cliff Lee styled six different looks based on six key chess pieces.

CLIFFLEE's looks are dark, edgy yet feminine.  They make you look at the classic game of kings in a way you never have before...  Cliff studied at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. He cut his teeth working with designers Jean Paul Gaultier, Helmut Lang and at Christian Dior before striking out on his own.  

The short film is a stylish work that makes the act of showcasing an aesthetic or fashion a work of art.   Each chess character has been revealed over the past few weeks dedicated to a different international fashion week... The Pawn represents New York.  The look was inspired by Holly Go-Lightly in Breakfast at Tiffany. She may have started as a pawn to others, but with the right moves, anyone can become a queen.  

To promote the project, they have a great Pinterest contest running.  They want pinners to create a board inspired by the dark style of the film.  You could win the Breakfast at Tiffany inspired Pawns's hat, umbrella and dress custom made to you by designer CLIFFLEE himself.  

To Enter, click through HERE:

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Trendspotting: Dia de los Muertos

Celebrate the Day of the Dead.  While quirky bars and restaurants have always used Katrina dolls and dioramas to decorate their interiors, I have seen a huge rush of the Dia de los Muertos trend in fashion circles of late.

666 Photography had a gorgeous beauty editorial that mixed makeup, floral headpieces and elegant, burlesque corsetry that went viral over Pinterest.  Other beauty bloggers and stylists were also inspired by the embellished skull look with their own interpretations.  The not-so-macabre trend made its way onto the nail art circles with amazingly detailed manicures.

Accessories designers have always found the holiday to be a muse.  There a bunch of jewelry artists who make everything from earrings to necklaces to cufflinks.  You can find the motifs on ties, handbags, and elaborate headpieces all over Etsy.  You can even complete your look with bony pumps .

My husband has always had a fondness for this Mexican holiday as it was very close to his Halloween birthday.  We have purchased some great art pieces from galleries that specialize in Mexican art.  In the last decade, mainstream companies have increasingly incorporated the decorative, morbid aesthetic into their product offerings.   LucasArts even had a cult-favorite video game called the Grim Fandango that takes place in a Dia de Los Muertos world.  Over at the Offbeat Bride, this aesthetic has found a romantic hold on many couple looking for alternative themes.

Want to see what YOU look like with Dia de los Muertos makeup?  I found this fantastic Day of the Dead Me app.

Conclusion?  Whether you are living or dead, you have no excuse not to look fierce.

Credits: 666 photography, Viveros via lewdfox tumblr, http://cdnimg.visualizeus.com,

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Alternative Fashion at Wave Gotik Treffen 2012

Alternative fashion and counter culture often influences mainstream fashion and sometimes the relationship is mutual.  At this year's Wave Gothic Music festival in Leipzig, trends we have seen on recent runways seem to be reflected in the festival garb.

Romantic silhouettes inspired by Marie Antoinette and upcoming period films were given an edgier sexy twist by fans.  Steampunk fashion went luxe with ornate embellishments.  Military and men's tailoring was combined with punk styling and Asian motifs, very popular on NY Fashion Week runways were given an update with latex masks.

Gothic style has been given a bad name with mall chains like Hot Topic.  The thousands of fans at Wave Gotik Treffen have proven that it can be elegant, artistic and beautiful.

Photos by ingrid eulenfan,Adam Berry,Manfred Drewa,Tino Eh,UWE-DZ,Mr. Dog, Ingolf Zibell ,Salamanek Kerstin ,bluedave,Konrad Diebler ,Raoul Brosch ,Edmund Klose, this-mortal-coil ,Isoldebaden,Erdt Manfred 

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Norisol Ferrari - Bespoke Punk Couture

 I met my new fashion heroine last week.  Her name is Norisol Ferrari.  She is a strong, Amazonian woman who makes no excuses for her super luxurious sable coats and makes no compromises in her quality and fit. She is often compared to Alexander McQueen, which she does not agree with, except to say they both are inspired by mens' tailoring and military uniforms.  Instead, she cites more historical references like Dior's New Look that she finds to be a muse, except she updates it with modern materials and some edgier gang references.  

She has very strong opinions on how many designers try to infantilize women.  She builds clothes for a woman's shape with an almost warrior-like passion.  Norisol has images of Frida Kahlo and Louise Brooks on her office wall.  She has trinkets and carved skulls from her travels and a wall of taxidermy to show her darker muses. 

Norisol proudly produces her collection with trusted artisans in New York.  She refuses to sell out or tailor her label to anything less than what truly inspires her, regardless of cost.  In this day of outsourcing and penny counting, her fashion manifesto is an career to look up to.

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Scream Queen Glamour - Christian Siriano Fall 2012

Did you ever find classic horror heroines elegant and sexy?  Apparently designer Christian Siriano did.  For his darkest collection yet, the Project Runway winner paid homage to the divas of scare Saturday night at EyeBeam Studios. 

The prolific dressmaker sent elaborately detailed fishtail gowns, floating wings, ruched tulle, sequins and satin.  The palette had lots of sculptured black, dark blood red, with some ghostly white thrown in.  Hair was a severe pulled back ponytail and deep vamp lipstick.  Red carpet fantasies for those with a wicked sensibility.

Yes, we may have seen a lot of fishtails at recent awards shows, but Mr. Siriano exaggerates the silhouette even more, with more fluid fabrics.  Draped shoulder details turn into wings when the model moves.  Instead of ruching as a trim, it is stacked upon stacked to built structure.

Congratulations Christian, you have achieved elegance for the post-Twilight generation!

Photos by Ching Leung

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Steampunk Fashion at Webster Hall

Take a step back in time to an alternate universe…A very elaborate one at that.  Legendary NYC nightclub Webster Hall (once home to Surrealist balls with Salvador Dali) hosted The Anachronism’s Steampunk: Visit to Edo event Sunday. 

Steampunk started as a literary movement blending historical time periods with science fiction.  It quickly spread to a fashion movement too, encompassing corsetry, tailored pieces, intricate brass ornamentation and vintage mechanical gears.  The movement is very inclusive and for this event, incorporated the culture of Japan.

Outfits of guests ranged from courtly Renaissance, to studious spectacled gentlemen.  Corseted kimonos were popular, with many ensembles made by hand by artists and crafters themselves. 

My favorite of the day had to belong to Genevieve of the band, Psyche Corporation, who co-sponsored the event.  She had a fantastic outfit crafted from vintage spindles and spools. 

The event had a fashion show, music and even a cosplay burlesque showcase.  (Though to be honest, the actual talent level varied greatly).  The cocktail menu was appropriately themed, ranging from the "Tesla Coil" and "Clockwork Lotus" and an entire section devoted to Absinthe.

In a city of strict fashion trends, wouldn't it be nice to step into fantasy?

photos by Adam Weinstein

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Gothic Fashion Bonanza at Wave Gotik Leipzig

It's one of the biggest displays of Gothic fashion in the world.  2000 fans converged on Leipzig, Germany for Europe's most popular Gothic music festivals.  The most impressive spectacle of course, was the fashion on display last week.

Almost every sub-style was represented at Wave Gotik Music and Art Festival.  You had your romantics, your Renaissance and Victorian groups.  Cyber punk Goths mingled with Steampunks.  Lolitas were on board, along with new styles like Camo-Goth.   While black and red are the classic Goth palette, there many who used bright colors in their ensembles.  

photos by Carsten Koall, John MacDougall

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Alternative Fashion at NY Comic Con

It's not Lincoln Center, or the Carousel du Louvre...However, the fans here are equally, if not more passionate about fashion.  Their style does not follow trends, magazines or runways, but their favorite time period, comic character or movement.

New York Comic Con brought together fanatics of horror movies, anime art, comic books, sci-fi television in all forms to the Jacob Javits Center in NYC.  For some, it was the place to show off their favorite costumes ahead of Halloween, or parade their alternative sense of style.  

The Goths...

It's about corsets, dark and edgy sensibility.  Lace, frills and theatricality.

The Steampunk...

Started as a literary movement, it's about 19th Century-WW1 and science fiction.  The fashion is about ornament, craftsmanship, gears, vintage technology.  The clothing is a little worn, formal, think vests, boots, goggles.

The Lolitas....

Lolitas are sweet and cute.  Petticoats are key.  Motifs are abundant, (cupcakes, cartoon characters, hearts, it's all good).  Sometimes there's a Gothic Lolita in there.  Wings, bows, stuffed animal purses and Mary Jane shoes are great accessories.

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