Academy of Art University's Class of 2015

What does the future of fashion look like? Despite their busy schedules, top editors flock to the runways of talented fashion students for a fresh look. I found that the Academy of Art University fashion show at NYFW has a distinct aesthetic as other design schools do. 

The strengths of the designers of the Academy of Art University is all in their treatment of textiles. Designer Paulina Susana Romero Valdez incorporated beautiful thread embroideries onto more conservative suiting fabrics and leather. 

The collections of Tam Nguyen, Han Teng, Andrea Nyberg and Kevin C. Smith were all about the different effect of hand dyed fabric. Famaz Golnam, Erin Milosevich and Xiaowei Liu manipulated the fabrics themselves into wearable, draped sculptures that looked perfectly suited to well, suits. Xue Yang and Oom Terdpravat created wearable fashion that collaged different textiles and weights into a cohesive look. Stella Xingyu Hu knitted volume into over-sized menswear sweaters that radiated colors on the runway. Contrasting fabric prints upon prints were put together by the team of Emannuele Ciara Jones and Ghazeleh Kalifeh.

Is fashion art? The tough part about designing a collection at art college is balancing marketability vs. creative innovation. All the details of creating a collection from start to finish is a lot for someone to take on, so the designers that can work in teams are that much stronger. I remember picking out an Academy of Art graduate as my top choice to win when I was helping cast NBC's Fashion Star on their first season. It turns out, she did win. This school has been a staple at NYFW for the past few years and clearly belongs there.

Photos by David TW Leung

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Supima Design Competition: A 2014 Winner!

Fashion designer Anastasia Iafrate was named the winner of the Supima Cotton Design Competition at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week with the award presented by supermodel Coco Rocha. The intensive contest pitted the best fashion talent from the Academy of Art University, FIDM, FIT, Kent State University, SCAD and the Rhode Island School of Design.

Iafrate named her winning collection “White Nights of St. Petersburg" after her native home in Russia. Using what she considered a casual cotton fabric, she created regal evening wear with beautiful flourishes.

Beijing born Ou Ma graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology as a knit designer. Her dreamy, cloud-like collection was actually an exploration in mental illness and emotional recovery
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Yuxi Bi from the Savannah College of Design is also from China. She created her romantic evening wear collection inspired by the texture of fine Supima fabrics.

Jenny Hoang represented the Academy of Art University. Her collection had a somber color palette. Her design work specializes in denim and cotton. Her theme for this group was "transformation".

Sharon Moon earned her BFA from RISD. Her gorgeous collection was inspired by the look of decaying flowers. She used a modern approach to create that aesthetic using an intricate laser cutting technique on strong cotton fibers.

David Lee is a West Coast-based designer representing the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising. His collection had bold color blocked seams that flattered the curves of a woman's body.

The winner of the Supima Design Competition receives a $10000 prize. The more valuable opportunity though, is the chance for finalists to show their collection at New York Fashion Week at Lincoln Center. What I enjoy is the fresh talent that shows me new possibilities that a common fiber like cotton can bring. Great work designers!
photos by Mariana Leung

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Academy of Art University - Fall 2014

The Academy of Art University premiered their thesis collections by 13 student designers during NY Fashion Week. Since 2005, the institution has debuted the collections of their students and recent graduates. Five of the collections shown were collaborative efforts between students from the Fashion and Textile Design program. Eight collections were presented, both in womenswear and menswear.

Each collection had a unique point of view, representing the designer’s personal esthetic.

The first collection to hit the catwalk, and my personal favorite, was the design collaboration of the Dynamic Duo of Jaci Hodges (Fashion Design) and Nisha Hanna Btesh (Textile Design). Jaci was inspired by the prints and fashions of the late 1960’s. She credits the television show, “The Brady Bunch,” for the patchwork style in which she mixes quirky patterns and textured fabrics in the collection. Nisha was inspired by the Japanese felting technique called Shibori. This technique is used to create sculptural effects on fabrics like wool adding just the right handmade touch to the 1960’s inspired collection.

Superb collaboration…BRAVO ladies!

The mood and emotion of the photography collection, “Beauty in Decay” was the inspiration for the menswear collaboration by Frank Tsai (Fashion Design) and Andrea Nieto (Textile Design). Andrea created printed textiles for the collection inspired by personal struggle and raw emotion. The result was  head to toe layered looks in distressed fabrics printed to appear tattered & worn. The design collaboration was a perfect balance of artistic interpretation in wearable designs and fabrics. 

Arijana Kadjdic’s, Fall 2014 collection was a balance of masculine silhouettes and designs peppered with feminine details in elegant fabrics. Arijana who was inspired by the women in her family, particularly her grandmother, which have nurtured her through out her life. The coats were constructed in luxurious wool fabrics like mohair and alpaca. Pants, constructed using the finest silks, and, dresses in french lace, were hand dyed and beaded to perfection. A color palette of muted pale blue & grey, embellished with beads, and crystals, sparkled under the lights.

The next womenswear collection was the design collaboration of Flora Cervantes (Fashion Design) and Lori Solem (Textile Design). Flora’s designs come from her fascination with the environment, specifically, the sites, sounds, and gritty textures of the city. Lori found inspiration for the fabrics from twisted shapes in nature and industrial textures. The collection was filled with oversized coats, printed maxi dresses, and skirts, and latex treated cotton canvas rubberized jackets. The collection was modern and fresh, while staying true to the original inspiration. 

Earnest Haung (Fashion Design) and Hong Ni (Textile Design) collaborated to create a womenswear collection, inspired by the city of Hong Kong, travel maps, and Ariel photography. The collection was modern and clean. Leather and wool coats were shown over printed pants and shirts. Oversized mesh tanks, vests, and jackets, added texture and dimension to printed pieces. The standout piece of the collection- (Look #6) Leather and wool green printed coat, layered over a long printed shirt, paired with slim pants.

Elizabeth Castellon’s (Fashion Design) Fall 2014 menswear collection was inspired by sculptures, futuristic architecture, and sportswear themes from the 1930’s. She chose to work with leather, wool, and traditional upholstery fabrics for her collection. Her color palette consisted of dark mahogany, various shades of browns, beige, and navy jacquards. The overall look and feel of the collection, can be best decribed as Howard Hughes (Aviator) meets Gordon Gekko (Wall Street).

Jasmine Gonzales (Fashion & Knitwear Design) Fall 2014 womenswear collection, was inspired by the idea of peoples and cultures coming together and joining as one. Jasmine’s collection was all her from start to finish. The designer hand-made the yarns, hand- dyed the velvet knits, and hand-knitted many of pieces in the collection. Jasmine’s hand-knit oversized pieces were influenced by the design on the famous Faberge´ Egg.

The last collection to be presented was the last designer collaboration of the show. Mingyu Du (Fashion Design) and Joseph Khawane (Textile Design) collaborated for their Fall 2014 womenswear collection. Mingyu was inspired by the mod fashions of the1960’s and chose unique materials like army tents, parachutes, and cotton canvas to create the garments. Joseph was inspired to develop textured fabrics with dual purposes. The color palette of the collection was influenced by military camouflage. Shades of green, brown, and grey, were dominant through out the collection.

Well-done students…I am sure we will be seeing great things from you in the future!

Article by Elaine Fioravanti, publisher of bestdressedginger.com, Photos courtesy of Randy Brooke

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Academy of Art University at NYFW Spring 2014

In it’s ninth season at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the recent graduates and students of Academy of Art University showcased their respective collections for industry leaders and a New York audience.

There was an equal balance of womenswear and menswear collections, woven in between each other to alternate the male and female. Eight collections showed, each designer and collaboration showcasing six looks each. As the designers showed one after another without introduction, it was crucial their collections stood out against each other. They all did with ease.

The opening menswear collection by Didvik Kuang played up the scarf and other colorful accessories like neon rimmed sunglasses. The external colors enhanced the main muted color palate of Kuang’s American Gigolo inspired loose fitting and relaxed collection. The dichotomy of colors further contrasted with the closing piece, an under-accessorised  long black trench.

Kuang’s collection was followed by Gwen Shihyao Lai’s womenswear. Lai highlighted bold prints in each piece of her collection. Straight-haired models with blunt, mod bangs strutted the structured, oversized pieces. The sharp jackets balanced out the printed button downs and bottoms. Lai’s collection seemed fit for a disheveled business woman.

Marine Rongrong Wei showed her menswear collection next. Full of oversized form and denim, Wei exhibited a ‘working class’ sensibility. The structure of her pieces showcased strength and unrelenting form.

The first collaboration of the show was a womenswear collection by Shanshan Bai and Winbo Shiau. Theirs was also the only collection to incorporate knitwear in each piece. Bombers and highly sculpted jackets offset the innovative knit tanks, sweaters and pants. The combination of so many elements exuded an alien aesthetic, modernized for the everyday woman.

Midway through the show, Leslie Dilloway’s menswear collection presented a de-stressed tourist. Her incorporation of liquid fabrics in a few looks took the collection from utilitarian to a necessary exquisiteness. Warning: Dilloway’s collection may make it harder to tell tourists apart from stylish natives your hometown. We have Dilloway’s chic fanny packs, drawstrings and windbreakers to thank.

Next, Vicken Derderian’s collection explored architecture in the human body with highly crafted dresses. Streaks of shine ran through backless dresses, pleated skirts, and an envelope sleeve dress that alluded to angel wings and human transformation.

The second collaboration of the night was from menswear designer Ryan Morar and textile designer Melissa Avalos. All looks incorporated a paint or print textile piece and t-shirt. Dark blues and tans juxtaposed with red and multicolored jacket hues. Their collection is perfect for a man with the enhanced urge for subtle futurism.

Nika Tang’s womenswear collection closed the show. Tang’s ruffles made an appearance in each look, paying homage to the oversized bubble form. Anyone looking to make a statement in unoffensive colors search no further.

The Academy of Art shows at NYFW are always refreshing. There’s nothing like scouting the newest talent straight out of school, without the weight of perceived industry demands jumping out of their collections.      - Niko Nelson

Niko Nelson is a new contributor to Ms. Fabulous.  She comes to us from The New School and specializes in art and fashion.

Original photos by David TW Leung

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