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Tuesday, September 20, 2016

#LFW: Mary Katrantzou Spring 2017

Do you want to see color? Mary Katrantzou has more color on her spring 2017 runway than any collection I have shot this year. The designer is known for her spectacular prints. For this season, her intricate prints took on psychedelic patterns, geometric shapes and the wild colors of the 1960s. It looked like my fantasy of London of that era, nostalgic for my Dad's memories of the city at that time during his school days.

The spiraling, twisting patterns not only were printed but were layered and embroidered to create a three-dimensional quality to the look. There were acrylic and mirror bottoms and tops that were made of linked pieces cut to match the shapes of the fabric prints, reminding me of vintage Paco Rabanne pieces.

There were long, skinny pants, short skirts with A-line or fishtail hems. Singular statement frocks found their sister outfit in long belted skirt and sweater combos. The 1960's "Mod" theme was also accompanied by the theme of Grecian or Minoan Goddesses. The human imagery depicted artwork of people in ancient times with a color palette for 2016. Ladies could be bathing or a battle scene decorated the lower half of a blazer. Oversized birds were embroidered onto tops.

The clutch handbags on this runway were just as interesting. Each Lucite clutch was stylized into a letter of the alphabet. At first glance, the letter may not have been obvious, like the "t" bag which had a profile of an alphabet letter but looked like a marbled surface purse from the sides. Other bags looked like signage.

Whether you are a textile designer, crafter or stylist, you could find a lot of inspiration at this show. Mary Katrantzou works her magic on the loud, beautiful pieces of her Spring 2017 collection. She brought back Britain's Swinging sixties. I love that every person I met at London Fashion Week LFW looks like they would fit right in. I hope to see much more of Mary as the seasons go by.
All photos by Mariana Leung

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