Spring 2017 Collections of 5 Black Fashion Designers

Diversity in runway fashion has been a big issue in the industry, but so far, the story has largely been contained to model casting. African-American designers have rarely been discussed as a group. This week, the Museum at FIT opened its exhibit on Black Fashion Designers in a small step to correct this. While I will give my report on this show a bit later, I thought I would highlight the Spring 2017 collections of a few Black designers I love and have showcased in the past.

Xuly Bet was a huge name when I came to NYC in the 1990s. He made a comeback to New York after doing his thing in France for awhile. His Spring 2017 collection was a celebration of his intricate prints and color combinations. The patterns had African advertising motifs, traditional tribal prints with some contemporary motifs of other cultures mixed in. There were killer shoes with coordinating prints and models were styled in fierce headwraps. Spike Lee, June Ambrose and Kelly Osborne were on hand to support him.

photo from WWD.com

Tracy Reese was my senior year designer mentor when I studied fashion at Parsons School of Design. She was always in sync with her the lifestyles of her customer. Her Spring 2017 collection featured "real" women instead of traditional models. The presentation was a garden party instead of a runway that showcased women of all shapes, ages, and sizes who worked in different professions. The clothes themselves were feminine, mixing graphic prints and flirty details. Animal print, lace, color blocking were all tricks employed by the designer to flatter the body.

Photo by Mariana Leung

Byron Lars is another designer who is committed to the body inclusive discussion. He expanded his collection to sizes 0-22 this season. He spent many hours (many that I was personally a part of) consulting with full figured models of different shapes, bloggers and customers to create a beautiful product that flattered the true range of his fans. The result was a gorgeous collection of pieces in silhouettes not usually found in the plus size range.

photo from African Fashion International

I always loved David Tlale's elegant silhouettes gliding down the runway. He came from South Africa to show in New York for several seasons. His Spring 2017 collection was a mix of both menswear and womenswear. The models looked like Gods and Goddesses striding down the runway in clean, bright, white and black looks.

Public School designer Maxwell Osborne was one of the few prominent designers to publicly embrace the Black Lives Matter movement. Together with partner Dao-Yi Chow, they recently stepped down from their posts as creative directors at DKNY. Their spring 2017 collection was a mix of collegiate styling with the proportions tweaked (extra-long sweaters, shorter pants), with a lot of too cool for school attitude.

Photo by Luis Monteiro for Duro Olowu

I fell in love with the aesthetic of Duro Olowu's work when I encountered his big collaboration with J. C. Penney. It was probably the first and last time I could afford anything with his name on it. That doesn't mean I can't admire his spectacular collections from afar. His Spring 2017 collection was a mix of ladylike dresses and capes with a retro silhouette. Prints were mixed from florals to big polka dots to color blocked stripes. 

After this last election, the fight to see diverse creative forces will be more challenging than ever. Show publishers that you not only want to see different models representing your clothing but tell your retailers that you want your fashion to come from designers of color as well. Check out FIT's Black Fashion Designers exhbit then, since they don't have a gift shop, get to the boutiques!

Also on Ms. Fabulous

Stephen Burrows - When Fashion Danced

Jazz Age Street Style 

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NYFW: Xuly Bet Fall 2016 - Swagger on the Runway

Welcome back Lamine Kouyaté! Xuly Bet was one of the coolest fashion labels when I first came to New York to study fashion. He was a particular favorite of legendary fashion journalist Amy Spindler (another of my heroes) before her passing in 2004. Kouyaté was a whiz with prints and elevated hip hop style to luxury.

Along with efforts of PR rockstar Kelly Cutrone, the designer returned back to New York from France to stage a guerilla-style comeback last September with his spring 2016 collection on the pavements of the city, knowing street style is where fashion rules now.

For his fall 2016 collection, the designer was on the official NYFW show schedule. The Xuly Bet show at Skylight Clarkson was attended by many longtime fans and a new generation of admirers. The collection looked like a throwback to 1990's hip-hop chic with catsuits, big faux fur, over-sized athletic wear and really great footwear.

The shiny metallic finishes and wild prints does not make this a label for the cowering wallflower. Every model strutted out in the catwalk with a maximum amount of swagger. I loved seeing a full cast of women of color, showing how high-fashion urban style can be when done right. The entire catwalk looked so fresh even as it brought you back in time that other designers have tried to emulate recently, but failed in comparison to this one. I believe that is because Xuly Bet is about authenticity rather than hashing out a trendy motif.

I am hoping Xuly Bet will be rediscovered by today's generation of divas for the stage. You can't keep a good fashion designer down.

all photos by Mariana Leung

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Byron Lars and Tasha Smith at ABFF

Fashion, film, and style go hand in hand. How you dress an actor can contribute as much to the character as the performance itself. Actress Tasha Smith made that point and insisted to her wardrobe staff that her favorite designer Byron Lars be included in her costumes when she worked on the show For Better Or Worse. This was all a part of the panel discussion hosted by Brandice Daniel of Harlem's Fashion Row at the American Black Film Festival over the weekend.

Harlem's Fashion Row has been an advocate for emerging talent in fashion for people of color. The organization also celebrates those who have achieved success as an inspiration for others to follow. The panel discussion asked Tasha Smith (now co-starring on one of my favorite style-centric shows Empire) about overcoming obstacles, using what makes you unique and supporting others to succeed with you.

Fashion designer Byron Lars discussed the hard work and perseverance it took to get the most prestigious retailers to make appointments and carry his collection. In the end, good product and incredible design are what ultimately hooked fans like Michelle Obama, the Smith sisters, the Kardashians, celebrities from Angela Bassett to Elle Fanning to Paris Hilton to love his looks. 

He had a mini presentation of his favorite looks from the current season. I loved the sexy, multi-cultural edge that the models were styled with, using handmade necklaces from Sheila Gray and shoes from Machi Footwear.

Winning in the entertainment and fashion industry is tough enough. Entering these fields as a minority in any form is even tougher. The lesson learned from today is to find good people to support you and great people to mentor you. 

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Byron Lars Fall 2015 Look Book

Divine design. The fall 2015 collection of Byron Lars did not have a specific concept at the beginning of the development. Byron had a goal of adding in pieces to his line that were more relaxed, comfortable enough for a woman to throw on quickly for work or home. He started with his wall of trims, textures, and colors and let the collection grow organically. I was on hand assisting in the lookbook photo shoot and snapped a few pics of my own to show you.

Byron Lars is a master of structured stretchy sexy:

The result is one of my favorite collections ever. You have to remember that each Byron Lars garment is a masterpiece in construction, seaming, and internal structure. This means that "simple" in his book is still anything but. There were some very pretty sweater tops with a twisted draped shoulder with tonal contrast trim that could be a very special replacement for a tee. A tunic alternative might be a shaped top with a high-low hem, artisan embroidery and fabrics sourced from three countries. As an option for a legging, there are super soft, stretchy seamed moto pants with trapunto stitching and hip panels to really shape and flatter your back assets.

There was a collection of ultra suede that was softer than any fleece I have ever felt and light enough that it draped like a silk charmeuse. I am so frustrated that I have to wait another six months to get my hands on these. They feel more comfortable than pajamas, but the draped blouses and twist front dress look like the most shapely hourglass pieces imaginable. There was a more rustic group that combined Native American patterns, South American textiles, faux fur and rugged trims but were interpreted into very tailored, elegant silhouettes.

The romantic brocade coat dress up top is a fantastic look for an offbeat bride. PR director Sheila Gray has already claimed that as her wedding dress. With most Byron Lars looks, there is a bit of irony. The flared coat dress has a more industrial gunmetal patent belt to keep it from being too sweet. The glamour makeup was done by Kenecia Lashae of Passport 2 Pretty. The retro chic 1940's hair was by Julie. 

This collection was built for curves. Byron Lars chooses fabrics with a lot of structure, but a little stretch. He designs the seam lines to accentuate or support curves. This is definitely a collection that celebrates bodies that are generally underserved by other designers. He is also looking to develop a sultry full figured line to further serve his fans. I have to say that to see his clothes on a hanger or photos do NOT do them justice. They really need to be tried on and twirled around in to appreciate them (trust me, I do that more than I care to admit).

Here's my behind-the-scenes video at the Byron Lars Fall 2015 Lookbook shoot:

video and photos by Mariana Leung

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Pratt Fashion Show 2014 - Award Winners

Congratulations to all of the graduates of Pratt Institute Fashion, Class of 2014! Last night was a celebrated evening for all of the talented designers, seasoned and new.

First, Stephen Burrows received the Lifetime Achievement award from longtime friend, legendary model Pat Cleveland.  My favorite, Byron Lars received the Fashion Visionary Award from modern style icon, actress Angela Bassett.  Also notable are the fact that both winners are the first African American designers to be honored for the Pratt Fashion awards.

Fellow fashion VIPs were on hand to support the new class and award winners like Catherine Malandrino, Fern Mallis and Stan Herman.

I am going to post more graduate collections from Pratt in the next few days, but first, here is Julia Wollner.  She was the winner of the Liz Claiborne Award for her achievement in concept to product.  Her collection had a clean, high-tech aesthetic.  The group looked to contain white fabric basics paired with digitally printed art on vinyl.

Our own Mdivani Monroe interviewed Fashion Visionary Byron Lars and style icon Angela Bassett:

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Byron Lars Fall 2014 Lookbook & Interview

Do you need a preview of what I will be wearing this fall?  I am fitting and shopping the Byron Lars Fall 2014 lookbook this week.  The fabulous Byron Lars, is being honored at the Pratt Institute Fashion show + Cocktail Benefit tonight with the Fashion Visionary Award.  He is a designer who is beloved by many celebrities for his fantastic fit and impeccable construction.  His success was not easy. It came with hard work and tough lessons along the way.  The new class of fashion designers can learn a lot from his wisdom:

Ms. FABulous: What are your favorite memories of studying fashion in school?

Byron Lars: I can't believe I'm saying this because, I'm pretty sure I didn't see it this way back then but looking back, my favorite part of studying fashion in school was pulling all-nighters by stowing away in the lab, hiding from campus security by turning out the lights as they made the rounds. 

This was the only truly focused stretch of time that I remember having to really get your hands in the work and keep them there...well till sunrise anyway.

Ms. FAB: What is one piece of advice that you could have used at the start of your career that most people don’t tell you?  

B.L.: What ever that might have been would more than likely have sent me running for the hills because, many of the realities of this and any industry I would imagine need to be revealed at a point when it's too late to turn back.  I guess Winston Churchill said it best, "If you're going through hell, keep going.".

Ms. FAB:  What advantages do this year’s fashion school graduates have that they should take advantage of?  

B.L.:  Every fashion student should take full advantage of as many internships as they possibly can (even if that only ends up being only one) to make their first professional contacts. 

Of course this means that you need to give your absolute all every day while interning.  This might even mean being relegated to running for coffee and little else BUT, if that ends up being the case, make absolutely sure that each and every cup of coffee you deliver is hot...unless of course it's ice coffee. 

Doing a great job without complaining will get you noticed in the best way by somebody which may just lead to your first paying job in the industry.    

Ms. FAB: In a tough industry or job market, what would you tell a frustrated fashion designer as part of your pep talk?

B.L.: We'd never have any sweet delicious lemonade without the sour lemons required to make it, right? 

So often, it's the struggles incurred during the toughest of times that summon and rouse the muse in ways that no other state of being  ever could.  The business of fashion is by nature mercurial but never more so than it is now, so these times are about adjusting ones thinking to become ever more responsive to the many rapid fire changes occurring daily.  

Ms. FAB: Thank you Byron Lars!
photos by Noah Chen, Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: David Tlale Fall 2014

High drama. More capes. David Tlale presented a beautiful fall 2014 collection yesterday at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. The first round of daywear looks had draped cape-like details that artfully embellished the wearer. The evening looks ranged from elaborately pleated skirts, draped crepe around the body and shimmering beaded embellishments.

 The dark navy, black and beige color palette seemed sedate at first, but then it highlighted the intricate construction of each outfit instead. A woman wearing David Tlale could go as conservative or as sexy as she wants. One of the most provocative looks was the sheer fluted gown with only embroidered flowers covering key points.

The ribbon/fabric rose embroidered motif was a consistent one throughout this collection. A similar motif was present in three other collections I have seen so far.  Was this a prophetic designer's dream that they all had? Or one clever textile vendor? Jeweled collars were another luxury accessory that made its way into this collection a few times.

It was a treat to see Anna Cleveland, daughter of the legendary model Pat Cleveland on this runway. You could see some of her mother's signature hand gestures as she walked. Too fabulous.

Bravo to David Tlale for bringing high glamor back to the tents.

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Tracy Reese Spring 2014

Ladies who saunter to the beat of a festive drum.  Tracy Reese's Spring 2014 fashion show at Lincoln Center was a sexy parade of bright colors, floral prints with Latin flair and Cuban swagger.  This designer, along with colleague Byron Lars is a favorite of Michelle Obama.  You can picture the First Lady showing off her muscular arms in the fitted short sheath dresses or presenting a great speech in the well cut print blazers.  

With tilted fedoras and cigarette pants, there were many looks that came down in pairs.  The bag of choice was a complementary printed backpack for the girl REALLY on the go (for great distances).  The models were cozy with each other, prompting me to wonder if another type of message was being expressed in support of recent political rulings.  True or not, I know the burly male photographers in the pit with me did not mind.

Tracy Reese was always a down to earth woman when I was first assigned to her as my designer mentor at Parsons School of Design.  She had the best assignments and constructive advice.  It was good to see her again when I volunteered to photographer Tracy Reese for the Fashion Fights Cancer event.

I love that her look is always a mix of fun and feminine for grown women.  I love the embellishment and play of colors with mixed prints.  No wallflowers, just blooming ones please!

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Behind The Scenes: Byron Lars Spring 2014

So here is a sneak peek at one of my favorite designers of all time.  Byron Lars allowed the Ms. Fab team to hang out for their Spring 2014 lookbook photo shoot.  The next few months will be difficult as I saw many pieces that I can't wait to buy and wear.

There was a great group of dresses with a candy colored tweed print by our own Mdivani Monroe. This was paired with a pieced argyle top, corset-like patent belts, metallic basketweave fabrics and lasercut details.  Other dresses mixed brocade and spikes, embroidered tulle, chains and an ironic/pretty moth print.

I love that this designer always makes sexy, but elegant clothes that flatter power women with curves.  (Michelle Obama is a consistent fan!) As intricate as the details can get in each dress, Byron never takes himself too seriously.  Even with a sleek, sheath silhouette, you might find three layers of fabrics in cut-outs, lace and prints to build a layered, textured depth to the design.  This then might be topped with manipulated trims or sequins or ribbon.

The amount of work and consideration that goes into each look is astounding.  I am lucky enough to have started contributing to this collection is a tiny way by organizing some of the production.  I get to drool over each piece as I measure and send fit corrections to the buyers.

For the lookbook shoot itself, the styling stayed simple.  Straight, sleek hair pulled into variations ont on the ponytail.  Makeup colors stayed naturalistic.  Models Anna and Jasmin seemed to really enjoy vamping it up in outfits they loved more and more.

I can't wait to see which celebrity picks this collection up first.  Care to wager a guess?

photos by Mariana Leung

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Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced

When is the last time a major fashion designer made clothes specifically to dance?  The Stephen Burrows exhibit at the Museum of the City of New York is a retrospective of a designer inspired by nightlife.

Stephen Burrows was a pioneering African American fashion designer whose look was defined by slinky knitwear, metallics and movement.  The bright colors, lettuce edged fabrics and body conscious silhouettes were inspired by the popular music of the 1970's, perfect for dancing in clubs like Studio 54 and worn by celebrities of its day.  What struck me was how contemporary the outfits all looked, as if they were a department store display you would see today.

Stephen Burrows was also one of the American designers chosen to represent the country is the famous "Battle of Versailles" fashion exhibition in Paris in 1973.  French couturiers like Givenchy, Dior and Yves Saint-Laurent and American fashion designers Bill Blass, Oscar de la Renta, Anne Klein and Burrows staged an epic contest to prove which country deserved to take the style crown.  While the traditional French designers showed classic dressing with Josephine Baker performing, it was the Americans who blew away the elite crowd with Liza Minelli, modern fashion and a team of African-American models who until that moment, were not considered the mainstream face of luxury fashion.

I love the short film near the beginning of the exhibit showing scenes of 70's New York City with slices of flashy disco nightlife.  It was nostalgic for the gritty, edgy, dirty NYC and how fabulous it was for it.  Stephen Burrows' fashion illustrations were also displayed throughout the exhibit.  You can see how a certain rhythm moves through the figures, colors or not colors, all the fashion is dancing...

Let's raise a mirrored ball to a man who was well ahead of his time and rocking his style still today!

The exhibit runs until July 28, 2013 at the Museum of the City of New York.

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Duro Olowu for JC Penney

I'm dedicating this week to spring style on a tight budget!  The snow thawed, time to shop, let's make it as painless as possible shall we?  Duro Olowu collaborated with J. C. Penney for one of the most unique retail mashups this season.  

This one really caught my interest because Duro Olowu is a Nigerian-born, British fashion designer.  His collections are known for bright, graphic prints and nods to his ethnic heritage.  This an unexpected, fashion forward choice for classic American mass market retailer J. C. Penney.  The result is an entire lifestyle collection that does not look like any other budget collaboration I have seen so far.

Modern updates to African tribal prints are worked into clothing, vases, entertaining pieces, picture frames... Woven textiles are mixed with carved wooden and brass handles for super chic handbags.  Traditional trims in bright, fashion colors are worked into playful jewelry.  

I was lucky enough to score a handbag and platter.  I was really impressed with the quality, especially at seeing the price points.  I could not find anything over $50.  With so many "limited edition" designer projects with stores that aim to be cheap and appeal to as much of the mass market as possible (aka bland), it was really refreshing to see this department store take a chance on both a lesser-known designer and bold collection.   Shop for it here.

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Byron Lars Fall 2013

 I have made no secret that Byron is one of my all time favorite designers.  This Fall 2013 collection left me drooling and upset that I would not be able to get my hands on it for my closet for another few months.

Byron was inspired by his fabrics this season, many that he developed himself over the past few seasons.  There was a gorgeous leather-like laminated lace fabric that was made into a fitted dress and sexy jacket.  There were fabric fused neoprene outfits in super bright colors as well as faux leather paillette pieces.  Animal lovers, you will be happy to learn that no actual animal skins were used in this collection.

Byron's clothes look fantastic on ladies with curves as they are seamed, pieced and fitted for the shape of the ultra feminine body.  These are not clothes for the wallflower... They make every woman a diva!

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Byron Lars Spring 2013

I have made no attempt to hide that Byron Lars is one of my favorite designers of all time.  His New York Fashion Week presentation was small and intimate in his showroom.  They bring everyone who works with them into the family.

For spring 2013, the designer brought his signature sculpted silhouettes.  Supremely tailored pieces with intricate seaming details, mixing materials and fabrication techniques for a luxe bohemian feel, laser cut and crochet.  The Byron Lars is not meant to take herself too seriously, even if the clothes she is wearing are seriously constructed.

The reason I personally buy so many pieces of from Byron is that they are built to support and flatter the curviest of women (no matter where your curves happen to be).  Everyone from Kim Kardashian to First Lady Michelle Obama flaunt his edgy/elegant chic.

Photos by Mariana Leung

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Tracy Reese - Fashion Fights Cancer

How meaningful can a handbag be? I learned the answer to that at an event given by Fashion Fights Cancer.  Designer Tracy Reese led a design and therapy session for cancer patients to personalize a tote bag.  The multi-week workshop was held at the designer's studio.  She and her team opened up their facilities to demonstrate dying techniques, embellishments and her library of inspiration books for the participants.  The group started with sketching on the first workshop, then got to explore all different skills for the next classes for their finished bag.

This class was one of a series organized by Ty Canty, founder of Fashion Fights Cancer.  Previous workshops were led by Byron Lars and another coming up with Jason Wu.  The non-profit will host a fundraising gala this September to provides services to survivors and those suffering from cancer.

To donate or volunteer your own stylish skills, learn more here.

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