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Thursday, February 27, 2014

Venexiana Fall 2014



For her Fall 2014 Venexiana show, Kati Stern treated guests to a veritable feast for the eyes. The impressive 68-piece collection was a showcase of glamorous stunning gowns. There was literally a dress for every red-carpet occasion one could ever need. The atmosphere inside the pavilion was enhanced when an unexpected mix of punk music played as models paraded down the catwalk in one-of-a-kind gowns.

Extravagant gowns were draped in lavish fabrics like silk charmeuse, crepe de chine, silk chiffon, velvet, and taffeta. In a variety of colors that included light lavender, lilac, seafoam, gold, blush, and black, dresses were adorned with crystal accents on necklines, shoulder straps, and belts. Gowns in vintage prints, with lace overlays were embellished with sequins and beading, and paired with fur vests and jackets, to reflect the glamour and style of the 1930's.

The most popular styles in the collection included halter, one-shoulder, strapless, backless, and V-back styles. You may think it would be difficult to wear one of these dresses, but Kati Stern creates an infrastructure for every gown to support the wearer and protect the integrity of the delicate fabrics.

Hollywood starlets’ of the 1930's inspired the make-up and hair. The Alcone makeup team captured the drama of that era with a smoky eye, heavy lashes, light eyebrows, and burgundy lips. Philip Pelusi and his team from Tela Beauty Organics, created beautiful faux braided pieces that were fastened on top of the models head, like crowns. The effect resembled a halo around the head. That looked like a cross between Rapunzel and Princess Leia.

 Now, if only I had a gala or red-carpet event to attend!    
- Photos and article by Elaine Fioravanti, Best Dressed Ginger
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What to Pack for a Music Festival

Fashion week is over, time to pack for warmer lands.  Heading to SXSW? Coachella?  You want to look stylish, but you might be camping out.  So what to pack for a good "glamping" trip?

Comfort is key.  I love long, flowing maxi dresses in pretty prints (that are forgiving of a grass stain or two).  This Kiss the Sky Slip Dress is great for layering for $68. To keep warm at night, a versatile wrap cardigan from Bobeau works ($40).  You can wrap it in multiple variations for different looks.

I know I always love my foldable flats for any occasion.  My favorite brand for these now are Yosi Samra's fold-up Flats ($92). The embellished straps, rubber soles and real leather fashion styles are a serious upgrade to the ones you find at the drugstore.

The prettiest planet-friendly watch I received as a gift this year was Citizen's Eco-Drive style.  It has a sleek, minimalist design and leather band.  More importantly, it is solar-powered and doesn't need batteries! One less thing to worry about over multiple days.

My unruly hair needs a good hairband.  I love this upgraded leather and crystal wrapped headband style from indie brand Desperer.

A backpack is just practical, and a great opportunity to shop for a chic one.  The Marc by Marc Jacobs backpack in pebbled leather looks great anywhere ($498).  You "need" this bag to hold a luxurious silk sleeping bag ($70) and Foldable Water Bottle ($19).

Rock on ladies!
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Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Anna Sui's Opium Den - Fall 2014

anna sui fashion
anna sui fall 2014
Vintage Chinoiserie and 90's Bohemia mated on Anna Sui's Fall 2014 runway.  The dark berry bow-lips and bobbed haircuts were reminiscent of old 1930's 'beauty" advertising.  Bright prints in Anna Sui's signature purples.

The soundtrack with retro racial stereotypes could have been considered highly offensive.  I suppose in Anna Sui's hands, it was meant to be an ironic poke at them to demonstrate how this collection was intended as a twist of traditional Asian motifs.  The contemporary take on Asian motifs theme has always been done very well by Vivienne Tam, I guess Ms. Sui wanted to give it a try.

Some of the looks were pretty and will no doubt have her hardcore fans drooling.  Her flea market look from the brand's inception is still consistent now, forever trying to capture the club kids and hipsters of the designer's youth.  However, the entire run of NY fashion week was filled with rich, luxurious furs, so the cheaper, fake fur qualities on this runway looked poor in comparison.

Much more successful were the accessories on offer.  Anna Sui's color blocked seamed footwear and handbags were a lot more fun.  The long, orientalist ornamental necklaces could give a dramatic look to any simple outfit.
Photos by Mariana Leung
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Tuesday, February 25, 2014

Cirque du Kix'ies Pin-up Chic

lingerie circus
thigh high model
kixies thigh highs
Lingerie Fashion Week trailed on the end of NY Fashion Week. My favorite? Kix'ies thigh-high stockings.  Their main selling point is their stylish edges stay up on your leg without giving it that muffin top look.

How best to demonstrate that?  They had a very flexible trapeze aerialist contorting herself for an hour in the hosiery and they didn't budge or inhibit movement.  Most women don't put themselves through that many motions in a day, so they passed the test.   The collection had pretty patterns and looked great under clothing, but their more opaque patterns and graphic top edges worked well as outerwear accessories too.

I had a chance to chat with founder Samantha DeMartini who created the to solve a problem of rolling stockings.  I used to love the look of thigh-highs, but hated fussing with garters and did indeed have to fight with legwear that kept rolling down on me.  Anyone with any kind of thigh would.  Samantha actually let me know that her most devoted customers are the one who wear the largest two sizes, because the curviest customers were delighted to finally find sexy hosiery that performed for their shape.

Ms. DeMartini keeps this collection close to her heart.  Each style is named after a woman who inspires her in her life.  A portion of every Kix'ies sale benefits the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society in honor of her father.

Samantha DeMartini was truly hands-on during this presentation.  When one of her models fell ill on the pedestal, she jumped in herself to keep the Kix'ies show going.  No doubt, this woman has already mastered the art of getting a "leg-up" in the industry.
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Sunday, February 23, 2014

Czar by Cesar Galindo Fall 2014

czar galindo nyfw
cesar galindo fall 2014

The Czar by Cesar Galindo Fall 2014 show was more than just your average designer presentation. Galindo opted to launch his Fall 2014 collection at the hub, an off-site location inside the Hudson Hotel, used this season by Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

The intimate setting felt more exclusive than other shows held in the same space during NY fashion week. The music, mood, and vibe of the show felt as if you were present at the opening of a new club. At one point, Galindo himself was on the floor, mingling with his celebrity clients, fellow designers, editors, and fans.
 
Models dressed in Galindo’s latest collection, graciously posed and re-positioned for the guests and buyers. This was a smart decision by the designer that would allow everyone the opportunity to view the composition and quality of every piece.

“Altered states” was the phrase Galindo used to describe the philosophy behind his Fall 2014 collection. Inspired by the effect technology has made on the world, Galindo set out to create a collection of wearable clothes for the modern woman’s ever changing lifestyle. 

Standout styles from Cesar Galindo included dresses in abstract prints, perforated leather in shades of blue, black, white, grey, and a bright peacock blue. It was challenging to find cohesion in the collection as a whole, however the collection was filled with fun dresses and separates perfect for most occasions. 

-Photos and Article by Elaine Fioravanti of Best Dressed Ginger
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Thursday, February 20, 2014

Reem Acra Fall 2014

reem acra fall 2014
gold beaded dress
Goddesses or femme fatales? Reem Acra sent some sexy sirens down the runway of her Fall 2014 runway.  Curve-flattering dresses were embroidered in sparkling beads in the form of fronds, branches or glittering tiger stripes that wrapped themselves around the body.

A palette of gold, cream, black and silver dominated the collection.  A few red and purple gowns were a bright contrast and sure to be picked up for award shows.  This presentation also had what was clearly the requisite fall 2014 accessory of fur in the form of boleros and collars.  The hair was slicked back and short.  It was more a look of power and sensuality on a grown woman's terms as opposed to girly femininity in a traditional sense.

Don't let the skin-baring, body conscious silhouettes intimidate you.  A collection like this shows how women are great at designing for women.  The embroideries, the strategic draping and style lines are all there in a show of smoke and mirrors.  Much of the embellishments are there to direct the eye to the curves you want to show off.  Well placed pleats are there to disguise bumps in the stomach or hips.  There were a few day looks that had a reversed arched neckline to served to make the neck look slender and slim the shoulders too.

 Reem Acra designs for the Goddess you know you really are.
photos by Mariana Leung

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Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Mara Hoffman Fall 2014

mara hoffman fall 2014
mara hoffman fashion
 Like an Egyptian Queen, Mara Hoffman's models strode down the runway in long, draped silhouettes.  The designer is known for showing ethnic prints in modern colors at New York Fashion Week.  What I never expected to see was so many looks that were solid black or solid white.

Don't get me wrong, the majority of the outfits had patterns drawn from Egyptian motifs, Moroccan textiles and the artisans of North African.  Prints executed in black and white or a rich mix of blue tones, hot pink and even gold.  Long, regal dresses and skirts that bared arms and shoulders up top or through strategic cut-outs through the middle.  The solid black looks mixed sheer and solid or extreme textures as an alternative to Mara Hoffman's signature brights.

Jewelry was simple.  Basic gold bands that were worn at different levels of the arm.  The hair was smooth and combed down.  There was one-off sweatshirt with a tongue-in-cheek camel print that had me chuckling (maybe it will be this year's "owl" trend).

camel fashionThere were loose, billowing caftans and related outerwear paired with pants.  Still, all the skin exposed was a stark contrast to all of the fur and layered looks I observed on other runways.  Then again, North African winters are not nearly as snowy as Northeast winters.  Mara Hoffman was clearly giving those of us shivering in the ice lots of wishful thinking.
photos by David TW Leung

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Tuesday, February 18, 2014

L.A. Leather: Skingraft Fall 2014



Black was the name of the game at Skingraft’s combined men's and women's Fall 2014 show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Los Angeles-based designer Jonny Cota infused his signature skins into the nearly all black collection, with the exception of two navy blue outfits (paired with black open-toe booties). The looks featured equal amounts of kilts, drop-crotch pants and hoodies.

Cota’s mastery of constructing leather and other thick fabrics like wool and knits, was evident in the intricate and striking construction of the collection’s jackets, skirts and shirts.

Set to the most energetic and loudest music I've heard all week, and in some of the harshest and determined walks I've seen, models came out decked in bombers, blazers, moto and varsity jackets. No skirt was longer than knee-length, but Cota sent enough knee-high leather boots and kitten ear hats and beanies down the runway to combat any confrontation with the New York cold.

Geo-quilt leather, wool and Mongolian skirts never looked so good together. A few pants looks appeared on the runway, in leather of course, and the men looked just as good in their own skirts as the women. I’m looking forward to Skingraft's Jonny Cota's dark, leather-filled fall.

-Niko Nelson
 Photos by Mariana Leung

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Monday, February 17, 2014

Zang Toi Fall 2014

zang toi fall 2014
zang toi fashion
I LOVE shooting this show.  Zang Toi always delivers a NY Fashion Week runway of glamour and elegance.  In the photographers' pit, all the jaded 'dudes' expressed their admiration of the refined looks they just witnessed.

The muse this season was 1930's Shanghai, or "Paris in the Orient".  Opulent jewels were painstakingly embroidered around necklines.  Rich velvets, silk taffeta and satin wrapped seasoned models in luxury.  What makes this fashion show such a treat is Zang Toi's themes are always carried through to the smallest detail.  The posture and attitude of the models who hold gorgeous poses.  Nail polish collections coordinated to key colors of the clothing.  Hair, makeup, jewelry are all a part of the fantasy.

Zang Toi uses his key team season after season.  Everyone who returns for his shows recognizes his hardworking crew and are as big a fan of the models as the clothing.  I heard a bunch of photographers cheer "Gigi!" as she sauntered out in her signature S-curved pose.  I love that she has such a vampy persona on the catwalk but is such a sweet kitten in person.

My favorite look at the Zang Toi show was a coat with a satin lining and jeweled beading on the interior.  It was subtle, but the most elaborate motifs were right on the bottom of the lining, and could only be seen when the contrast lining flipped up at the back when the model walked away.  Talk about making an exit as memorable as your entrance!
zang toi runway
zang toi
photos by Mariana Leung

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Saturday, February 15, 2014

Pamella Roland Fall 2014

pamella roland fall 2014
pamella roland fashion

There was no lack of sequins at Pamella Roland’s Fall 2014 show. Nearly every look in the collection, full of sleek silhouettes, shimmer and satin, was worthy of a red carpet trip. The collection’s palette relied on black, navy and and wine hues juxtaposed with a few silver and marigold looks, and none shied away from Roland’s devotion to embellishments.
sequin bodice

Two of the four pants looks featured in the first half of the collection were fully sequined and another glimmered in a silver lurex fabric. Tweed and mink coats and a jacquard and fox fur trim jacket helped balance out the more than abundant amount of these sequined pieces.

As the collection moved into evening wear, floor length gowns varied from deco designs to beaded fringe to more sequins. 

Pamella Roland’s Fall 2014 collection is definitely for the woman with somewhere to go and people to impress.                       -Niko Nelson
Photos by Mariana Leung
pamella roland show

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Friday, February 14, 2014

Happy Valentine's Day - Fall 2014 Trend: RED

red ny fashion week

I Heart All of You!  I am working from home today to edit all of the photos that my team and I have shot over the course of NY Fashion Week.  Going over the images, one of the clear trends was the color red.

The color was particularly striking inside the Lincoln Center tents of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week where every corridor, theater and salon were pitch black.  Contemporary designers like Desigual, Anna Sui and Betsey Johnson used it to bold effect in fur, sequins or prints.

More classic designers like Carolina Herrera, Reem Acra and Tadashi Shoji used it in long, body conscious silhouettes for evening.  Red has always been a signature color for Vivienne Tam's modern Asian chic.  Rebecca Minkoff used red in bold patent leather in her handbags.

Red is the color of love and makes you feel sexy.  So snuggle up with your special one and look forward to a great fall fashion trend in 2014!
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Thursday, February 13, 2014

#NYFW: Badgley Mischka Fall 2014

badgley mischka animal
badgley mischka fall 2014
badgley mischka fur
Animal magetism.  Badgley Mischka's Fall 2014 collection at New York Fashion Week was a luxe display of fur, animal print and earthy colors.  The overall look was suited to an opulent Czarina or Anna Karenina, with metallic beading on gold embellished brocade for the evening gowns.

Richly printed chiffons gave a flowing air to leg revealing dresses.  Big fur hats, cuffs and neck warmers gave an extra level of luxury in the accessory department.  For all of the grandeur, the hair and makeup were low key and naturalistic.  Perhaps this represented an escaped Anastasia on the run?

Award season still has a few red carpets to fill.  Which celebrity do you propose to wear these looks?
photos by Mariana Leung
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#NYFW: Betsey Johnson's Hot Fall 2014

betsey johnson granddaughter
betsey johnson fashion
betsey johnson fall 2014

It's always a party at Betsey Johnson.  The lineup for the  fashion icon's fall 2014 collection was overflowing hours before her show even starts.  Even the most stoic photographer dudes can't wait for the bright shiny colors, campy models and Betsey's signature finale cartwheel.

The theme of the collection was "HOT".  The irony being the photographer's pit was stifling hot and so tightly packed, it felt like Hell.  It was all worth it of course when the models strutted down the runway.  I love the retro 80's club vibe to this collection.  It made me nostalgic for an era I wasn't old enough to indulge in, kind of like "The Carrie Diaries" on television now.

The biggest feature was the legs.  Super-short slip dresses and striped legwear that showed off the gams.  Metallic, lame and sequins to make sure that reflective surfaces are your friend.  Animal prints in off-nature color palettes and fun fur jackets made sure that no wallflower would ever enter this garden.

Handbags were over-sized.  Even clutches and pillbox shaped purses were larger than what you would expect for that silhouette.

I love that 70+ years and Betsey Johnson is still showing everyone a good time.  Only now, that party includes her daughter and granddaughters on the runway.  Hopefully this is her way of telling us that her legacy is in good hands for generations to come.
photos by Mariana Leung
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Tuesday, February 11, 2014

#NYFW: Tracy Reese Fall 2014

tracy reese fall 2014
tracy reese runway
A warm and muted color palate was the staple on the Tracy Reese Fall 2014 runway. Amongst Reese’s mixed looks, dresses ruled the runway. Knits with prints, and prints atop prints, the key to this collection was contradiction. Model’s mild makeup and thick brows grounded print heavy looks. Look after look, ‘cozy-chic’ was seeping off the runway.


Models sashayed past onlookers toward eager photographers in printed pumps, fur trimmed clogs and metallic boots. The shoes that stole the show were Reese’s shimmering, bi-colored, gold flecked pointed flats.
An equal amount of flowy and fitted forms balanced out Reese’s 43 piece collection. She played with mixed prints and mixed colors, like a plunging v-neck multi-colored and multi-fabric long sleeve sweater, complete with a one arm mesh knit sleeve.


Reese’s collection showcased a multitude of prints like tweed plaid, thick geometric stripes, and a variety of florals. But it was her silk screen tree print set to a late sunset background, on two dresses and a skirt, that made me ready for this fall to come in quick.


One dress stood out above the rest in the show. Paired with a light grey feather scarf, the nude, v-neck knee length silk dress featured a slight flare at the trim and a silver diagonal sequined pattern which encrusted the breast, bodice and right hip.

The upcoming Fall for Tracy Reese is laid back, sophisticated, full of sequined fun and most of all warm, warm, warm!  
- Niko Nelson
Photos by Mariana Leung

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#NYFW: Carolina Herrera Fall 2014

carolina herrera fall 2014
carolina herrera runway
Prints, optical illusions, spiky beading.  Carolina Herrera's show on Monday morning at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was one that many of my fellow photographers had been waiting all week for.

Is it the elegance? Is it because she is an American fashion icon?  It usually takes more than that to impress a bunch of jaded dudes in the photo pit.  The fall 2014 collection continued with Ms. Herrera's  streak of optical prints.  The patterns were bold and looked fantastic in long and short dresses.  Red was a big color here and quickly shaping up to be one of the biggest colors for the luxe designers of NY Fashion Week.    The bright colors in print or solid also worked for day to evening purposes, which might be exactly the lifestyle her clientele represents.  Upscale garden party by day, gala by night?  Red carpets that start when the sun is still out but airs at night on the other Coast?  Makes perfect sense.

The architectural stage set-up made for a dramatic frame around the models as they walked down the runway.  Each silhouette was modern, flattering, but still somewhat forgiving for the real woman.  I liked the beaded motifs that made their way onto some of the looks at various angles.
The models strolled down that catwalk in a vision of confidence and poise.  There are plenty of designers who will do girly or a gimmicky theme.  I can't help that I like Carolina Herrera's theme of strong women even more.
carolina herrera finale
photos by David TW Leung
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Monday, February 10, 2014

#NYFW: David Tlale Fall 2014

High drama. More capes. David Tlale presented a beautiful fall 2014 collection yesterday at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. The first round of daywear looks had draped cape-like details that artfully embellished the wearer. The evening looks ranged from elaborately pleated skirts, draped crepe around the body and shimmering beaded embellishments.

 The dark navy, black and beige color palette seemed sedate at first, but then it highlighted the intricate construction of each outfit instead. A woman wearing David Tlale could go as conservative or as sexy as she wants. One of the most provocative looks was the sheer fluted gown with only embroidered flowers covering key points.

The ribbon/fabric rose embroidered motif was a consistent one throughout this collection. A similar motif was present in three other collections I have seen so far.  Was this a prophetic designer's dream that they all had? Or one clever textile vendor? Jeweled collars were another luxury accessory that made its way into this collection a few times.

It was a treat to see Anna Cleveland, daughter of the legendary model Pat Cleveland on this runway. You could see some of her mother's signature hand gestures as she walked. Too fabulous.

Bravo to David Tlale for bringing high glamor back to the tents.
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Sunday, February 9, 2014

#NYFW: Tadashi Shoji Fall 2014

The cape!  If there has been any trend that has had the most variations for New York Fashion Week Fall 2014, it has been the cape.  Tadashi Shoji's red and black number above was the most breathtaking one so far.  The rest of the runway was a mix of long, fitted silhouettes with light sheer fabrics that gave movement to the models' steps.

Artisanal lace, delicately printed chiffon, saturated red and blue organza gowns had a regal look perfect for a princess or red carpet award winner.  While the tall and svelte models suggest otherwise, the dresses are actually quite flattering to a variety of bodies.  The body conscious seams, flowing skirts  and long coats are actually slimming to those who actually need it, or brings some curves to those who need those too.  Maybe it would be beneficial for Tadashi Shoji to hire a diverse group of bodies for his next runway show to demonstrate that?

Another beautiful collection from a really great man.
Photos by David TW Leung
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#NYFW: Desigual Fall 2014


Barcelona knows how to bring a party! Spanish clothing brand Desigual presented their collection for the second time at NY Fashion Week with another fantastic show.  The label has a philosophy of fun and inclusiveness, a concept that was sold very well by the models on the runway.

This show is quickly becoming the photographers' favorite as the wild mix of prints and colors looks great on camera.  More importantly, the models are given free reign to sashay, dance, vamp and play in front of the lens.  The only consistent look was the gold eye shadow on an ethnicaly diverse group of models.

The huge mix of prints ranged from geometrics, trompe l'oeil and 1960's mod to updated variations of traditional ethnic motifs.  While many of the other designers piled on the fur and cozy outerwear, this collection, designed for a global customer base, looked like it could be season-less.

This label is created by a huge design team that probably couldn't fit on the catwalk.  Instead one of the star models brought out a golden valentine message from the Desigual designers as the finale.


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