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Monday, September 30, 2013

Shecky's Girl's Night Out!


Girls night out usually happens every Saturday night. Spending the night in with your closest friends, sharing the week's gossip over specialty cocktails, beauty pampering, good music, snacks and the occasional movie.

Rarely do these girl’s nights last all day, complete with a bouncer, a red carpet and hundreds of other ladies, but at Shecky’s, their Girls Night Outs do. Where “you and your fabulous entourage will discover unique designers, sip our delectable drinks, and cap your night off with some pretty pampering and glorious Goodie Bags,” according to the event throwing company’s website.

I stopped by the New York City Fall 2013 GNO at SIR Stage37 in Midtown Manhattan to check in on the women’s only day of workshops, exclusive boutique designer sales, complimentary drinks and one-time only beauty packages and giveaways.

Most boutiques at the event were online only stores with special booths set up to promote deals on jewelry, clothes and bags.

Stores like accessories boutique Color Me NYC, accessories and handmade Japanese clothing shop Nanako offered event only specials and coupons for later use, while companies like Loud Cosmetics promoted their brand before debuting their products in the upcoming year.

As Shecky’s GNO events happen year round and nationwide, check out Shecky's Website for an upcoming event near you! -Niko Nelson
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Saturday, September 28, 2013

Jenny Packham Spring 2014

The 1970's hit the NY Fashion Week runways for spring 2014.  Jenny Packham, a favorite of Kate Middleton and many red carpet celebrities brought the decade of nightlife to her evening wear.  There were many long silky skirts and off-the-shoulder styles that echoed the easy peasant look.  There were also the short, sleeveless jumpers I remembered from childhood.  However, they were interpreted in luxury fabrics and delicately embroidered.

The easy silhouettes almost reminded me of elegant nightgowns at times, and the over sized clutch handbags looked like teddy bears.  Instead they were appliqued with lots of silk flowers.  Hair was styled like relaxed wavy bohemian girls.  Jewelry included white iris hair pins and rings.

Some of these styles already made an appearance at the Emmy Awards from last Sunday.  Do you think they should hit the disco next?
photos by Mariana Leung

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Thursday, September 26, 2013

Behind The Scenes: Byron Lars Spring 2014

byron lars ss14
So here is a sneak peek at one of my favorite designers of all time.  Byron Lars allowed the Ms. Fab team to hang out for their Spring 2014 lookbook photo shoot.  The next few months will be difficult as I saw many pieces that I can't wait to buy and wear.

There was a great group of dresses with a candy colored tweed print by our own Mdivani Monroe. This was paired with a pieced argyle top, corset-like patent belts, metallic basketweave fabrics and lasercut details.  Other dresses mixed brocade and spikes, embroidered tulle, chains and an ironic/pretty moth print.

I love that this designer always makes sexy, but elegant clothes that flatter power women with curves.  (Michelle Obama is a consistent fan!) As intricate as the details can get in each dress, Byron never takes himself too seriously.  Even with a sleek, sheath silhouette, you might find three layers of fabrics in cut-outs, lace and prints to build a layered, textured depth to the design.  This then might be topped with manipulated trims or sequins or ribbon.

The amount of work and consideration that goes into each look is astounding.  I am lucky enough to have started contributing to this collection is a tiny way by organizing some of the production.  I get to drool over each piece as I measure and send fit corrections to the buyers.

For the lookbook shoot itself, the styling stayed simple.  Straight, sleek hair pulled into variations ont on the ponytail.  Makeup colors stayed naturalistic.  Models Anna and Jasmin seemed to really enjoy vamping it up in outfits they loved more and more.

I can't wait to see which celebrity picks this collection up first.  Care to wager a guess?
byron lars design studio
photos by Mariana Leung
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Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Zang Toi's Ballerina Babes

zang toi spring 2014
zang toi fashion
zang toi ballet
This show is always the one I look forward for NY fashion week.  The inspiration of Zang Toi's Spring 2014 collection was the grace beauty of ballet.  The fashion show opened with Cory Stearns, the handsome star of the American Ballet Theater gracing guests with a performance.

The collection that followed was a parade of silk fantasy looks. There were ballgowns of ruffled tulle.  There were elegant silk crepe suits.  There were long fishtail gowns embroidered with beads, platinum thread or delicate silk flowers.  The color palette was a dark charcoal paired with icy blue or ballet pink.

The clothes were not only beautiful, Zang Toi gives his audience the complete package of dramatic models, well fed photographers and guests who get to go home with nail lacquer coordinated to the collection.  The man puts the show in "fashion show". Appropriately, the normally jaded audience gave him another standing ovation this season as they have done in the past.

Bravo to another grand performance Zang!
abt cory stearns
Ballet Babe Cory Stearns
cory stearns
original photos by David TW Leung
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Monday, September 23, 2013

Emmy Embroidery Red Carpet Stars

 Ah yes, my round-up of the best embroidery design from the Emmys Red Carpet.  My first group are my picks for pure glamour.  Connie Britton wore Naeem Khan's regal silk velvet and gold embroidery from the Fall 2013 collection that I loved from the runway.  She went from Diva to Queen the minute she stepped on the carpet.  Heidi Klum was stunning in Versace's "pomegranate" beaded dress.  The seams, beaded style lines and patterns added even more oomph to her formidable shape than she could possibly need.  Julianne Hough's pastel Jenny Packham dress was very revealing, but the dainty all over embroidery still kept it elegant with a classic Hollywood feel.

This group had the best use of embroidered details.  Amy Poehler's had these great embroidered fringed pockets on her dress by Brian Rennie for Basler.  My girl-crush Mindy Kaling wore a gorgeous plus face framing beaded neckline by Georges Chakra.  Katrina Bowden had a lovely jeweled waist detail on her gown from Badgley Mischka.


I dubbed this group my bride-alternatives.  I'm not saying they look like wedding dresses, but would look great for any bride seeking an unusual, but glam gown for walking down the aisle.  Kerry Washington's Marchesa dress had big, appliqued flowers embroidered in an organic pattern.  Julia Louis-Dreyfuss's beaded column by Monique Lhuillier made her tiny frame look statuesque.  Claire Dane's beaded white dress from Armani Prive was like an icy princess fantasy that was feminine yet modern.

Who wore your favorite Emmys Red Carpet look?
photos from John Shearer/Invision for Academy of Television Arts & Sciences/AP Images
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Sunday, September 22, 2013

Artisan Embroidery at Naeem Khan Spring 2014

naeem khan embroidered
naeem khan black and white
naeem khan spring 2014
 Latin love was the aesthetic inspiration for Naeem Khan's gorgeous collection at NY Fashion Week.  The rose floral embroidery was a nod to the peasant blouses of Mexico, but embellished with a bit of luxury crystals and beads.  The jungle motifs from South America were also alluded to in the bright palette of the painted stripe dresses and wild leafy embroidered sequin dresses.

Naeem Khan is still Naeem Khan though, so the sweeping gowns, red carpet stunners and elegant sheaths that dress royalty are still the key silhouettes of this runway.  They just happen to be interpreted with some Latin flavor in the most luxurious way possible.  One of the most striking embellished groups were the ones with black base fabric and then embellished with fur, beads and crystal which vaguely resemble the aristocratic tribal looks of Mayan culture.  The jacket and built up shoulders just looked so rich and indulgent.

The braided hairstyles were a perfect blend of elegant updo with a respectful reference to the traditional braided hair of Mexican women in ethnic garb.  I would love to imagine that Frida Kahlo's most elegant dreams would be dressed from this collection.
khan
original photos by David TW Leung

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Saturday, September 21, 2013

Mordekai by Ken Borochov Spring 2014


Overt glam and oversized-everything ruled the cream carpet runway for Ken Borochov’s Mordekai Spring 2014 collection at Milk Made Fashion Week. The clothes were the accessories to the ‘accessories.’

Models strutted barefoot in lingerie, cutout one pieces and velvet bikinis. Pastel pinks and yellows set the color mood, while whites and purples grounded the collection’s palette without a hint of black.

Sometimes accompanied by feathered Mohawk headpieces, secured under the neck or over the model’s face, most looks incorporated large block letter slogans, of the “Queen”, “God” and “Trill” variety.

Borochov called this the Chastity Collection, but the “chastity” belts were of the most charming kind. Belts featured intricate floral designs, most with gold detail, reminiscent of gladiator attire suited for the stylishly adventurous.

The abundance of sheer and lace in each look balanced the bold accessories. The floor length lavender sheer overlay and baby pink baby-doll ruffled layered shirt were the most striking contrasts in the collection.

Choke collars, arm and ankle cuffs hooked to roped chains and enhanced by caged face pieces, rounded out this stunning collection.

Get ready for an endless loop of double takes if you dare walk down the street in a look from this one of a kind collection. - Niko Nelson
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Thursday, September 19, 2013

Carolina Herrera Spring 2014

carolina herrera hat
carolina herrera nyfw
carolina herrera runway
carolina herrera spring 2014
original photos by Mariana Leung
It's amazing how effective good old optical illusions can be.  The simple techniques of Carolina Herrera's Spring 2014 collection wowed the guests and photographer's  pit at NY Fashion Week.  The effect was layering graphic prints on sheer fabrics on top of each other so that the patterns looked like they were moving as the models walked down the catwalk.

The geometric patterns and graphic lines looked very high-tech but it was such a great, easy look.  The designer also used embroidery design sparingly.  There were cut circles and flat jewels that just added a dimensional effect to complement the existing patterns.  There was one neckline of built up floral and jewel embroidery that was more classic Herrera to please the red carpet queens.  Otherwise, these great moving stripes might be a problem on television, despite how nice they look in person.

A few looks carried huge, long statement necklaces that had a row of pendants.  They featured unrefined stones for an artsy ethnic vibe.  Shoes were two-toned satin stilettos that complemented the colors of the fabrics.

The dresses of this show were delightfully unexpected.  Now I am inspired to go out and find my childhood brainteaser books to see what else can be designed this way...
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Wednesday, September 18, 2013

By the Book: Michael Kors Spring 2014

kors nyfw
 When I attended Parsons School of Design, it was all about "7th Avenue Sportswear".  The king of this was Michael Kors.  His collection for spring 2014 was the textbook presentation of the well edited, merchandised, buyer-friendly groups that our professions always wanted to see.

What does this mean? When my class had to present our groups of "croquis" (fashion sketches on a figure) the teachers were always looking for cohesive  groups mixing prints, coordinating solid colors, diversity of separates, etc.  Exactly what department store buyers would buy, consistent price point and easy enough for the most unimaginative retail to understand.  Were they asking design students to scale new heights in creativity? No.  They were teaching us to get a job.  Parsons students of today are no longer pushed into this philosophy based on the artistic work I have saw at the last graduate show.  In this century, designers can only distinguish themselves from the big labels by doing something completely different.

Michael Kors is the perfect example of the old school. He's not breaking new ground in fashion design, but he is an American fashion icon by his wit and business savvy.  His spring 2014 collection mixed conservative long, buttoned up dresses and classic coats in brown, navy, camel, green.  There were cropped tops and short shorts in the same fabrics to accommodate the same customer's daughters.

The MK handbag was a huge breakout hit at retail the last few years, so purses also took center stage on the catwalk.

I may not look to Mr. Kors for design inspiration, but he's the first man I would go to for a great quip or learn the industry from.
michael kors purse
original photos by David TW Leung

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Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Vera Wang Spring 2014- Relaxed Chic

vera wang spring 2014
vera wang nyfw
The queen of sheen? The reigning maven of bridal showed a subdued collection for NY Fashion week.  Vera Wang Spring 2014 was about easy, relaxed sheer silks.  There was black on black of transparent and solid.  Neutral beige color-blocked with yellow or red.  Royal blue and black was the other combination with some white on white towards the end.

Vera Wang used some of my favorite luxe embroidery designs in the late 1990's and I looked to this collection to show me what the next red carpet knockout was going to be.  Unfortunately, I didn't find it.  The silhouettes were very simple and leaned mostly towards sportswear.  While the embellishments looked good up close, in photos, they read like a Hawaiian lei tacked to a shapeless top.  The fabrics are undoubtedly expensive, but they didn't always read that way visually.  The clunky shoes didn't help either.

Was this collection supposed to reflect the designer's new zen lifestyle?  (Hey, the woman looks damn good for 64). Was this runway for her diffusion lines and not her designer tier label?  The photo pit was not informed of the rundown. Don't get me wrong, I would love to lie around the house for days in big flowing silk organza.  I just don't have the budget to pay price point to do so.

What do you think of Vera Wang's relaxed collection?
vera wang portrait
original photos by David TW Leung

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Monday, September 16, 2013

Darkly Printed at Nicole Miller Spring 2014

nicole miller fashion show
nicole miller spring 2014
 This is definitely shaping up to be the season of the print.  Nicole Miller's Spring 2014 fashion show mixed pretty ribbon or sequin embroideries with wedges of colorful patterns for a stained glass window effect.

For a designer that many women used to turn to for prom dresses, the brand put out a sleek, mature sportswear collection with a bit more edge.  On a more subtle, more subconscious note though, did anyone see a tribute to Tim Burton here?  Maybe I'm crazy, but some of the asymmetrical pieced print dresses looked a lot like Sally's outfit from A Nightmare B4 Christmas.  A black leather outfit with grey stitch detail was reminiscent of Edward Scissorhands.  The black and white stripes and green wild hair?  Beetlejuice.  I can't have been the only one to pick up on this?

The hair was up, but messy.  The lipstick shade was a dark mulberry.  The shoes were often a mix of contrasting colors and hardware.

Whether you think my theory is correct or not, I have to say this was a very pretty group with a good balance of sleek leather and feminine florals with some luxury embellishments thrown in.  The crowd pleaser works for both the young rebel and the established lunching lady who keeps on trend.

So do you agree?  Do you see Tim Burton haunting this collection or am I insane?
nicole miller fashion 2014
nicole miller finale
original photos by Mariana Leung

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Saturday, September 14, 2013

Embellished Badgley Mischka Spring 2014

badgley mischka nyfw
badgley mischka wedding
Anyone who reads this blog on a regular basis knows that I love good embroidery.  Some of the prettiest embellishments on the spring 2014 runways came from longtime design duo Badgley Mischka.  Their NY Fashion Week show was a parade of ruffled chiffon and vintage crystal beading that looked at home right in the sets of Downton Abbey or the Great Gatsby.  The jeweled motifs looked rich and intricate.  I love the engineered placement of the beaded fringe on one particular skirt (rather than the cliche rows of flapper fringe).   

Dainty hard frame clutches carried a more contemporary diamond motif along with bigger, modern carryall handbags.  My favorite shoes were two-toned strappy heels.  Jewelry was delicate and had an emphasis on cuffs and dangling bracelets with pearls and stones. The pale pastel manicure was the mani of choice for the models along with finger wave curls for the hair.

Which celebrity do you think would look best in one of these gowns on the red carpet?
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Friday, September 13, 2013

Cyber Princess or Punk at Falguni and Shane Peacock Spring 2014

falguni peacock spring 2014
peacock ny fashion
These guys are rapidly coming up the list as one of my favorite shows at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.  Once again, the husband and wife duo of Falguni and Shane Peacock has created an edgy, but luxurious collection made for pop stars to drool.

The intricate digital prints were already high impact.  Then, the florals and kaleidoscope patterns were layered with metallic trim or elaborate embroidery.  Dyed feathers or crystals further embellished some pieces.  This was all interpreted into very sexy dresses or skin tight pants.

Accessories included hardcore black leather and brass cuffs or neck chokers.  The strappy boot styles were sexy and bondage inspired.

This collection already has fans in Paris Hilton and Lady Gaga.  As you might guess, the Falguni and Shane Peacock label is not meant for the office wallflower.  I love that the designers did not create a literal punk inspired collection.  They worked edgy elements into what were very sophisticated silhouettes and construction.

How would you dress your inner punk princess?


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Thursday, September 12, 2013

NY FASHION WEEK: Ralph Rucci Spring 2014


Ralph Rucci’s commitment to detail is obvious. His Spring/Summer ‘14 collection’s intricate construction and luscious fabrics left my senses high with allure and delicate charm.

The show began with the slight dimming and subsequent revival of bright lights, setting the tone for Rucci’s increasing intricacies in pieces throughout the show.

Rucci introduced the collection with slimming and relaxed fitting black and white ensembles. Tuxedo pants, python jackets and semi-sheers tops called for the classy woman with no absence in style.

Leather jackets and detailed cutout broadtail coats remained clean and fit, while tunics and pants gave way to free flowing ease in silk chiffon and tulle.

A pale, muted palette allowed for each piece’s construction and fabric to stand out. Nudes, blacks and white gave way to deep bronzes, and the fabrics thickened with each look as well. Precise cut and fitted pants, coupled with an all over bronze sheen and zip open back, gave Rucci’s “Bronze Shantung Mao” suit a show stopping staple, sure to be all over trendy bodies soon.

The looks moved between monotone, crisp structured Upper East Side wear and Downtown disco sparkle with an all over black paillette with an exposed sheer torso.

My favorite of the night was a late 15th century Gothic homage via a Maltese cross gown. The edge of the sheer and opaque black sleeveless top was countered with a floor length, pastel satin, sheer striped skirt. Perfect!

Rucci continued his eclectic era references with a “Nude Braided Chiffon Samurai” knee length spaghetti strap. The dress slightly tiered each inch down, unfolding into modern chic heights, ending with a longer sheer bottom.

Rucci exemplified beauty in every piece. Each look channeled a classy, broken mermaid. One who fares better on the streets of New York, but wears her luscious roots as a dress.
- Niko Nelson
photos by David TW Leung

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Wednesday, September 11, 2013

NY FASHION WEEK: Monique Lhuillier Spring 2014

monique lhuillier gown
monique lhuillier spring 2014
Summer is for sorbet.  That was the color palette for Monique Lhuillier's collection for Mercedes-Benz Fashion week.  Frothy chiffons in tangerine, raspberry, peach and ombre shades like vanilla blending into chocolate.  

Monique has always used pretty embroideries (including some of my own designs).  This season, the textile designs I loved the most were the three dimensional laser cut flowers and fringed flowers that looked they vines creeping all over a gown.  They both looked very fresh and bright.  They were perfect for those red carpet events that take place in bright daylight, but the starlet still needs a glamorous gown for the paparazzi.  

The other long, solid colored dresses were also destined for a red carpet.  The runway looked like a flurry of silk chiffon fairies were drifting down.  Note to new designers, light sheer fabrics show off movement beautifully and always works as photographer bait as you can see below:

What is your favorite flavor of summer?

monique lhuillier fashion week
original photos by David TW Leung

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