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Thursday, January 31, 2013

BOCA: Shooting Fashion and CFDA in Florida

Boca Raton, Florida may not be the fashion capital you are expecting, but the Boca Museum of Art has three stellar fashion exhibitions running simultaneously.  

The first, is Draw and Shoot: Fashion Illustrations and Photographs which shows a collection of images from artists and photographers like Rudolf Bauer, Carl Erickson, Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, and John Rawlings.  The show examines the evolving aesthetics of style and beauty in how different artists depict fashion through the decades.

Jody Culkin: Refashioned is a show dedicated to the quirky artist and her reinterpretation of iconic fashion items.

The big exhibit however, is IMPACT: 50 Years of the CFDA.  Surprisingly, this is actually the first museum retrospective of the organization and its members itself.  The Council of Fashion Designers in America, over the past 5 decades, has supported and promoted its roster of over 600 designers of the fashion trade.  In this show, living members of the CFDA like Geoffrey Beene, Diane Von Furstenburg, Donna Karan and Vera Wang have selected one item that best represented their contribution to fashion history.  

I'm ready to get out of the cold and immerse myself in some culture in a sunny location...How about you?

All three shows opened this week and will run until April 21, 2013.
photos from bocamuseum.org,jodyculkin.com,fitnyc.edu
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Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Costume Design - 2013 Oscar Nominations

Period films and fantasy rule the costume design category of the Academy Awards this year.  Every nominee was already quite accomplished with numerous awards before this year.  Even so, the work below speaks for itself on its own film's merits:


For the lush Anna Karenina, costume designer Jacqueline Durran first studies paintings of the 1870's then drew inspiration from 1950's silhouettes for a more contemporary feel.  This is the couture candidate, bringing in millions worth of Chanel diamonds and gowns inspired by Balenciaga and Dior.


For the historical biopic Lincoln,  Oscar-nominated costume designer Johanna Johnston found an unlikely muse in Mary Todd Lincoln. Johnston says she became fascinated by the “over-fussed” First Lady, who used clothing to compensate for her plain looks. 

Spanish designer Paco Delgado had collaborated with filmaker Pedro Almodovar and won awards for his theater work.  However, the sheer scope of overseeing over 2200 looks for the grand scale of Les Miserables was intimidating.  He used color and texture in his costumes to tell the stories of his characters.


·         I wasn't the biggest fan of the film Mirror Mirror, the family-friendly take on the Snow White story.  However, I was a huge fan of the late costume artist Eiko Ishioka the first minute I saw the dramatic armor costumes in Bram Stoker's Dracula when I was in high school.  She was a frequent collaborator with director Tarsem.  This was her last film.


       My all-time hero in the art of costume design has got to be Colleen Atwood.  She has a gorgeous dark aesthetic that has dressed some of my favorite films.  Her creations for Snow White and the Huntsman are some of her best yet.  One of my best moments in blogging has been the opportunity to interview her earlier this year before the movie came out.  Check out the post here.  

      Who are you rooting for on February 24th? 
Photos from DAVID JAMES, 20th century fox, MOVIELINE.COM,universal pictures,vogue.com,wwd.com
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Tuesday, January 29, 2013

First Lady Style - A History

I visited the nation's capital this weekend. I'm not a political person, but was drawn to the National Museum of American History's First Ladies exhibit.  While the exhibition had artifacts ranging from their dinnerware to personal effects, the highlight was clearly their gowns.  Not all of them were the inaugural gowns, but they represented the style each of them possessed. 

 Michelle Obama's famous white Jason Wu inaugural gown were on display.  You learned that Grace Coolidge was known as "sunshine" had terrific flapper style in the 1920's.  

Certain designers became linked with certain First Ladies, defining their style.  There was a pretty dress from Oleg Cassini for Jackie Kennedy and Laura Bush's red beaded Michael Faircloth gown, a nod to local talent. 

Judith Leiber clutch handbags were clearly the favorite of contemporary First Ladies.  

Some outfits, though worn many years ago, have timeless style that looks perfectly elegant today, like Lou Hoover's draped crepe gown from 1932 or Nancy Reagan's beaded James Galanos gown (above).  


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Monday, January 28, 2013

SAG Awards Beading

Night and day, the gowns were at last night's Screen Actor's Guild awards.  As always, I pick my favorite embellished gowns for embroidery and beading.

Jenny Packham scored a lot of red carpet time with beading like a night sky on Jenna Fischer and edgy studded embellishments on Kelly Osbourne.  Nicole Kidman was elegant in a floral applique navy gown from Vivienne Westwood.

There were some terrific bridal alternatives to be found in the white dresses that came down the carpet.  Mad Men's Kiernan Shipka wore an off-white Oscar de la Renta dress.  Jayma Mays from Glee wore a flowering dress from  Georges Hobeika.  Kerry Washington continues to stun by wearing a Rodarte dress with a fantastic bodice that was a mix of hard studs and delicate lace.

Photos from Fashionista.com
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Trendspotting: Hair Fashion

Not sure if this is gross, avant-garde or rehashed vintage... Charlie le Mindu just showed a Goth chic collection feature human hair as embellishment in Paris for Spring 2013.  He was inspired by women who scared him.  The dramatic looks were tastefully done, but he certainly wasn't the first to use hair...
charles le mindu hair dress

Alexander McQueen's Savage Beauty exhibit showed pieces with some taxidermy chic... A dress featuring horsehair and a dress accented with bird skulls:
alexander mcqueen bird dress

Monkey fur was widely used in the 1920's and 1930's as a way to add drama to vampy femme fatales on screen.  It also fave a sleek, black, hair-like appearance.  Here is a vintage Gloria Swanson photo:

If you want to kill this trend forever, all you need to do is take a look at these outfits made from dog hair and worn by their owners... EW.  



Photos by Giovanni Giannoni,nowfashion.com,Metmuseum.org,vintagegal.tumblr.com,lostateminor.com

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Friday, January 25, 2013

Czar by Cesar Galindo Spring 2013

 Cesar Galindo has been a hired gun for many of the fashion world's top collections.  His own collection for a spring 2013 runway show is a crowd pleaser.

What I learned from his pretty Spring 2012 collection was that he drapes a flattering silhouette, and he knows how to pick his colors were precision.  This formula served him well again this season.  He had flowing maxi dresses in bright solids or graphic black and white prints.  Sunny tangerine, turquoise, yellow, hit all the top spring notes.  Long, draped garments were also forgiving to his customers who wanted a relaxed feel.

Cesar's look is not Earth-shattering fashion forward.  They are simply great looking clothes for a specific customer.  I have to say, the accessory I like the most from his shows though, is the genuine smile he always has at the end...

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Thursday, January 24, 2013

Modern Vice - Made in NY

adoni shoes

shoe factory ny

What are your vices?  Are they funky, upscale footwear made in the heart of New York's Garment District? The Adoni family is a multi-generational shoe producer.  Jordan and Jensen Adoni are shoe design entrepreneurs whose father opened a factory in Brooklyn many years ago.

The two brothers are now bringing their love of New York to their label, Modern Vice.  The upscale shoes are made with luxury materials right in the heart of Midtown's fashion center.  If you visit their factory, you will see skilled artisans dying, cutting and stitching the products right in front of your eyes.  The brothers themselves are very hands-on.  You could probably find them at the factory any day of the week morning or late night.

The trip to their factory was the highlight of an evening hosted by hot NYC retailer, Cloak and Dagger, which showcased some of their other top collections as well.

Like your food, it pays in style and conscience to shop local.  Check out more photos of the Modern Vice factory and event here:

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Wednesday, January 23, 2013

Trendspotting: Origami Fashion

weng meng origami bridal
I grew up making origami, originally taught to me by mother.  A traditional childhood paper craft, she never thought it would become a lifelong obsession with me... In high school, I graduated to making origami jewelry and greeting cards that would become my little side hustle at craft fairs.

For my senior year fashion design thesis at Parsons School of Design, I created a wedding dress out of silk gazar origami birds on a hooped satin organza base (see above).  This one got a lot of mileage, as fashion magazines from the U.S. and Spain asked to feature it.

Origami also became another side project in later years when I taught children to make their own creations at an Upper West Side restaurant which then turned into a business of creating folded paper decor for events.  Go figure.
origami dior galliano

In fashion, I am clearly not the only one to be inspired by this ancient craft... Mainstream couturiers like Chanel in 2009 and John Galliano for Dior in 2007 have had very popular collections.
paper fashion

The Pratt Institute and the MOMU Fashion museum at Antwerp had featured exhibitions of dresses made from folded paper.  Other artists and up-and-coming designers are also creating new couture pieces using manipulated folds in metallics, paper and fabric.

Etsy is full of artists creating everything from jewelry, handbags, t-shirts and party decor:
origami etsy
Some great DIY tutorials on origami-inspired fashion accessories

Origami flower change purse:


Origami Earrings:



photos by Giovanni Giannoni,Mauricio Velasquez Posada ,Bobbin Talk, David TW Leung,Francois Guillot,Francois Guillot
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Tuesday, January 22, 2013

First Lady Style: Michelle Obama


She chose Jason Wu again!  This was as much of a surprise to the designer as everyone else yesterday.  Michelle Obama wore Jimmy Choo shoes to match.


Jason Wu was a 26 year old, little known favorite only known to fashion insiders when Michelle Obama chose his white gown for the first inaugural ball:
michelle obama wedding dress


Has there ever been a First Lady of the United States that has made a bigger impact on the fashion industry than Michelle Obama? The wife of newly re-elected president Barack Obama has been a style pioneer, turning cult designers or up and coming talents into household names:

Byron Lars' impeccably constructed dresses have been worn by Michelle Obama on many occasions:
michelle obama byron dress



The First Lady made a huge sartorial splash at the Presidential debate in this shimmering pink Tracy Reese dress:
michelle obama pink dress
That famous red and black dress Michelle Obama wore on election night in 2008 was from Narciso Rodriguez.  She has worn his work on multiple occasions since then:
michelle obama red dress
Photos from Getty Images, Telegraph UK, Glamazons Blog, AP,Shefinds.com
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Blue Jeans Exhibit at Centraal

Gluejeans Revolution Jeans ©Bill Tanaka
How much do you love your jeans?  The fashion staple started as work wear in the 17th century and evolved into a high-fashion must-have in the 20th century.  Centraal Museum in the Netherlands pays tribute to history of denim and the designers that have made jeans a fashion icon.

The exhibit includes some of the first jeans from Levi's as well as designs from Chanel, Martin Margiela and scores of other fashion heavyweights.  You can explore how traditional methods of processing jeans has been destroying the environment and the sustainable materials or eco-friendly techniques that are available today.

I worked in denim for Nautica Jeans for several years, from development to when it landed in the stores.  What many people don't realize, is that the more expensive the jeans, the less they will last.  Why?  The costs of the jeans is related to how many processes have been done to the once pristine garment.  Those soft, artfully dyed, or abrasions are all individual steps.  Jeans can be dyed multiple times with different washes to achieve a certain texture.  Holes, shredding, imprints are hand done.  The cost of a $500 pair of jeans is a result of a long process of destruction.  Ironic isn't it?

I don't know of any singular item, especially a casual clothing item that elicits more love and loyalty from its owner.  Finally, a museum in the Netherlands is giving proper tribute to it!  

Blue Jeans Exhibit at the Centraal Museum runs until March 10, 2013.
image from Centraal Museum

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Monday, January 21, 2013

Comme Des Garçons Fall 2013




Comme des Garcons wants you to regress to adolescence. By their "Tree of Youth" inspiration for fall 2013, they want you to relive the most awkward, most unfashionable teenage years, not the cute retro looks of prom.
The male models came out in wigs that looked like they were stolen by an eccentric aunt. Jackets in terry patterns and pastel colors that looked like they were borrowed from a girlfriend's bathroom were paired with printed pants that looked like pajamas. Bunny ears and Mickey Mouse ears by Stephen Jones crowned the ironic, must-have-been-high ensembles. I'm not sure if these pieces were purely for editorial entertainment, but the Easter egg colors soon have way to more wearable looks.
The second half of the show had a mix of different black patterned fabrics. Blazers of different lengths and long shorts were more along the aesthetic the avant-garde label is known for. Individually, those pieces could look great on men paired with the right mix of pieces. Was the ultimate story here that even the most uncoordinated sloppy teen eventually grows into a prince? I would like to think so.
Photos by Yannis Vlamos

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Saturday, January 19, 2013

Celeb Stylist Kate Young for Target

Joining a long line of fashion notables like Prabal Garung, Jason Wu and Missoni, celebrity stylist Kate Young will launch her collection with mass market retailer Target this spring.

The stylist has worked on the red carpet looks with starlets like Michelle Williams and Natalie Portman.  While Kate has been in the fashion industry as a consultant to labels like Armani Exchange and Ann Taylor, this will be the first collection to bear her name.  
Job seekers, take note:  Kate Young has worked as a stylist in the past for Target.  In a tv interview last year, she actually voiced her fantasy of creating an affordable line for the retailer.  Low and behold, an executive soon approached her to do just that.  Lesson? Be vocal about what you want!

The first sketches for the collection has hit the internet.  I personally love her simple, clean, fashion illustration style.  The drawings clearly communicate the look, construction and details.  
Best of luck Kate!
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Friday, January 18, 2013

Porsche Twin Bag Launch

porsche twin bag

porsche design
You know Porsche for sleek cars.  How often do you shop for luxury fashion goods from them?  The Porsche Design boutique on Madison avenue hosted a launch party for their first purse, the Twin Bag.

porsche twin bag partyThe Twin Bag is a ladylike, multi-tasking handbag.  It's basic silhouette reminds you of an iconic Birkin, but it has dual-purpose straps so you can wear it on your shoulder or carry it by hand (as demonstrated by the models above).  Officially launching in March, the bags were available for custom orders last night.  You had your choice of colors and super luxurious skins like ostrich and crocodile.

My Hubby was drooling over the men's watches and luggage in between sips of champagne.  There was a quick photo booth from NYC Photo Party where I ran into fellow Glam blogger, Kitty Bradshaw.  The party also gave me a few moments of pampering courtesy of Exhale Spa, who did my nails.

I always thought of the Porsche brand and sporty, fast, European.  The Twin Bag seemed more conservative and regal than what I pictured the first handbag from Porsche to look like. However I did love it upon sight, and can't wait to see what they do next.
Photos by Mariana Leung, Adam Weinstein and NYC Photo Party
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Thursday, January 17, 2013

Jenny Packham Spring 2013

jenny packham sequin
jenny packham spring 2013
I love feminine, but modern embellished dresses.  Jenny Packham's collection is what I would wear every day (if it was appropriate).  I know most of the sequined or embroidered frocks scream evening to most people, but I love shiny objects in the daytime.  I don't see why a short sequined dress and a cardigan can't be office wear?

The color palette for spring 2013's NY fashion week show was certainly adoptable by the masses.  Beige, grey, butter yellow, black... HRH Kate Middleton is a big fan.  This is a collection for modern princesses.  Is there anything wrong with that?

jenny packham info
photos by David TW Leung
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Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Invitation: Norma Kamali's Closet Cleanse

Norma Kamali
Looking to raid an iconic American designer's closet?  RSVP to the address above...

Looking to do your own closet detox and win $3000 for a designer wardrobe renewal?  Check out Hello La Mode's giveaway here. 
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Top Ten Websites for Indie Fashion Designers


Designers! Whether you are a fashion fan looking to jump in, or a veteran of the industry, starting your own indie fashion venture is intimidating.  Luckily, the internet has great resources for fashion entrepreneurs of every level.  Here are my top ten websites for start-up fashion:

Reference/Sourcing:
Looking to produce locally?  I was just introduced to Maker’s Row.  It is a beautifully designed site that vets domestic factories for clothing and accessories.  

Fashiondex has been around for awhile.  The site isn't fancy, but lists lots of suppliers to cut the legwork down for everything from trims, fabric, contractors and publications.

Startup Fashion is a great site for looking up industry terminology, retailers and articles for design entrepreneurs.

Opportunities:
The Emerging Designer has fantastic articles on doing business, design competitions or other opportunities to be seen and purchased.

Handbag Designer 101 is for all of you accessories designers.  It runs conferences, lists jobs and services and hosts an annual design competition that has jump started many a successful label. 

GenArt.org has been around for years and they aim to promote and showcase creative from art, film and fashion.  Alumni include everyone from Zac Posen to Rodarte.     

Inspiration:
WGSN is a paid subscription site, and if you work for a larger firm, you might get access.  Otherwise, try for their student or group subscriptions, or follow their blog.  They have amazing reports on color, retail display, patterns, product categories, packaging, everything you can think of.  Highly addictive.

If you don’t already know Pinterest , you shouldn’t be in this biz at all… Target your image searches for specific inspiration and follow your heroes.  It is also good for getting feedback on your own work or attracting new sales.

Marketing and PR:
PR Couture is a wonderfully comprehensive site for learning about the do’s and don’ts of PR that apply specifically to fashion creatives.  Learn etiquette, case studies, tips and great resources from Crosby Noricks, one of the best in the biz.

Design Sponge is one of my favorite sites for overall design, but their Biz Ladies column is one of the most helpful I have come across for creative people learning the nitty gritty of business.  (Legal? Taxes? E-commerce and SEO marketing?) The language is written from successful design entrepreneurs who have already learned their lessons and can explain their advice in words we get. 

Good luck, and onto fame and fortune everyone!
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