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Friday, August 31, 2012

Honor Fall 2012

honor fall 2012
giovanna randall honor
Honor designer Giovanna Randall had an unusual journey to fashion.  She started as an opera singer, then a pre-med student before studying design in New York and Milan.  Her Fall 2012 collection at Mercedes-Benz fashion week shows her passion for global luxury.

The palette was black, purple, blue, cherry and moonlight.  A recurring motif of stenciled florals had a distinct Asian feel. Posh combinations of lace, silk charmeuse and satin gave the looks a sexy, boudoir vibe.  The models looked dressed up, but relaxed, I imagined a socialite falling out of bed and throwing on Honor's luxurious sportswear on her way out the door.

Front row fans included Kristen Chenoweth and Alexa Chung.
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Thursday, August 30, 2012

Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible: Release Party

 tim gunn

project runway book

Tuesday night, I paid a visit to my alma mater, Parsons at the The New School.  I was there to celebrate the book release of former faculty Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible.

Long before becoming a mentor on Project Runway, Tim Gunn was the calming, intelligent influence in The New School's administration.  He quickly boned up on all things fashion when he took over as dean of the fashion department after I graduated, (CFDA's Stan Herman was dean during my time).  I love that he recognizes certain aspects of the fashion industry are ridiculous (I'm talking about you Anna Wintour).  He may be a contemporary fashion icon, but he still lists "Educator" first among his various titles on Twitter.

His new book definitely shows his academic roots.  Tim Gunn's Fashion Bible, tag line "The Fascinating History of Everything in Your Closet" thoroughly explores the origins of iconic fashion items and their influence on modern dress.  Be prepared for a smarter, thoughtful commentary on fashion than your typical celebrity style guide.

A perfect tome to smarten up for NY Fashion week, all of his books can be purchased here.

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Wednesday, August 29, 2012

NY Fashion Week Preview

custo barcelona spring 2013

theia norisol ferrari sketch
Excited for NY Fashion Week yet? Just thought I would share some sneak peeks from fashion designers and their fashion illustrations for their upcoming runway shows.

Top, we have Custo Barcelona.  It looks for spring 2013, it will be a candy colored palette and of course, lots of texture!  Then we have Don O'Neill's sketch of a blue gown for Theia, and Norisol Ferrari's dramatic red dress.  Fierce and elegant.

tracy reese sketch
In sportswear, VLOV looks like it is doing sedate but crisp suits for spring.  Jenni Kayne is working the variegated stripe and flirty skirts. Tracy Reese is rocking skinny pants and bright colored jackets with a high low hem.
spring 2013 fashion illustration
Libertine has some bright colors and interesting silhouettes ready.  Rachel Roy's sketches show some flattering seaming details for spring and a continuation on the trend of color blocking.  Vivienne Tam drew upon inspiration from the 5 elements and Christian Siriano was inspired by the American Ballet.
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Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Louis Vuitton Giveaway!

Made your big fall handbag purchase yet? Hello La Mode is giving away a brand new Louis Vuitton Avalon handbag in their Facebook contest.  The purse is in my favorite fall color of oxblood in their signature Monogram Vernis finish.  I wish I could get in on this, but I'm an employee, so I can only let all of you know about it and hope you let me borrow it if you win!

To grab this baby you just need to enter here and invite five of your friends to join in. Just for entering, you will receive a $25 gift code.  Win-win right?

Good luck!
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Monday, August 27, 2012

Theia at the Saratoga Fashion show

theia saratoga
 Dapper Don O'neill of Theia Couture sent fantastic models down the runway at a Saratoga Fashion show benefiting Ronald McDonald House Charities last week.  The annual event raised money and honored longtime supporter Natalie Sillery of Saratoga Trunk.

The gorgeous event took place at the famed Saratoga Race Track. Stylish ladies displayed elaborate hats in the tradition of racing fashion.  Dresses from Theia included his shimmering daywear, laser cut petals and sunset gown.  Models include local Saratoga women who are affectionately called "Trunkettes" who celebrated the 50th anniversary of the organization.

Don recently gave Hello La Mode a fantastic interview about his personal favorites of designer fashion.  He also tells Hello La Mode exactly why an organization like Ronald McDonald House means so much to him.   "It’s an incredible house and it’s an amazing facility".  He continued, "to realize the benefit of being able to stay in a facility that’s a home away from home, 5 minutes from the hospital, where your whole family can be together.   There are kitchens and there are meals and you’re being taken care of so that you can focus on the person that’s sick. And I knew how important it was but I never realized exactly how much until I actually experienced for myself how truly important it is. I realized how proud I am to be part of helping people have this amazing facility when their family members get sick." 

The designer donated several Theia dresses to be sold to benefit the RMHC .  Shop, volunteer or donate to this wonderful organization!



natalie sillery fashion
Photos by Erica Miller of the Saratogian 
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Friday, August 24, 2012

Soia and Kyo Fall 2012

soia kyo fall 2012
soia kyo fall 2012
Shopping for jackets is always my favorite part about fall fashion. Canadian outerwear company, Soia and Kyo is stylish, wallet-friendly find.  Designer Ilan Elfassy showed the trendy collection at Toronto Fashion week with looks for men and women.

Their coats and jackets always have a sexy edge to them.  Signature details include big buttons and dramatic, asymmetrical collars. This collection stuck to basic colors of black, charcoal grey and camel.  Fur touches on hats, collars and hoods were on trend for this season.

As a Toronto raised gal, this label is exactly what I would want.  Cozy, cool weather appropriate looks for the Canadian climate, but cosmopolitan chic for the country's fashion capital.  The luxury market is a smaller one here, so Soia & Kyo's affordable price point has made it a popular choice north and south of the border.

photos by David TW Leung
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Thursday, August 23, 2012

Pamella Roland Fall 2012

pamella roland fall 2012

pamella roland 2012
Pamella Roland's Fall 2012 collection was about day to night luxury.  Fall's big fur trend was in force on this runway. Coyote, fox, mink adorned collars, hoods and shoulders.  Sportswear was in sharp red, black, cream, grey and red.  For evening, rich metallics and satin chiffon took center stage.

Three quarter length jackets were popular over long boots and short skirts.  At night, long fishtail gowns and dramatic flared skirts, some with a high/low hem wowed the front row guests.  Designer Pamella DeVos also loves to include rich embroidery and beading.  There was a great cross hatch embroidered bodice on a blue cocktail dress and fully beaded gowns.

The designer always loved fashion, but practical parents urged her to study business instead.  She nurtured her creative impulses with art history and worked in women's retail in school.  The well rounded background clearly paid off in her success.  Celebrity fans include Katie Holmes, Tyra Banks and Jane Seymour.

photos by David TW Leung
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Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Embroidery Design Innovators - Stitches Magazine

embroidery design magazine

wedding gown embroidery

Embroidery trade publication, Stitches Magazine published a special fashion issue for September.  Titled the "New Age of Decoration" it spotlights seven designers who specialize in embellishment in their collections. 

 I am honored to be one of the seven designers featured (I'm called "The Dream Maker").  Besides giving Weng Meng Design Studio a plug, I loved seeing how diverse seven different embroidery specialists can be in their techniques and aesthetic. 

Artist Conrad Booker considers himself an environmentalist/couturier.  He created embellishments with found objects.  Cecile Hadjian modified Renaissance paintings digitally before printing them on fabric and embellishing them with stones and other materials.  

 I focused on taking classic techniques and modernizing them by varying the size and color of the materials to give embroidery depth or richer look in the fringed skirt.  I used delicate fabric appliques and crystal for the bridal pieces.

Embroidery is so much more than applying thread in little motifs on a garment.  It is a vast textile art that combines the most ancient artisan techniques with the most advanced technologies available today.  Materials go well beyond silk floss and glass beads.  Designers like myself have used everything from computer chips, film negatives, balloons and bubble wrap in our designs.  

You can check out the magazine and my fellow designers online here.
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Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Sales Alerts: DKNY, Barneys Warehouse Sale, Sarah Stevenson

dkny sample sale
DKNY
An icon of fashion for New York career women, Donna Karan's diffusion line is having a huge sample sale.  The sale will have clothing, accessories and shoes for men and women up to 70% off.

When: August 21st to 25th, TUES: 10AM-8PM, WED-THU: 9AM-8PM,FRI: 10AM-6PM, SAT: 10AM - 5PM
Where: 260 5TH AVENUE (BETWEEN 28/29 STREET)

barneys sale
Yep, it's the big one.  They recently put some of the selections online if you live too far away or are averse to aggressive fashionistas.  This sale has been a shopping tradition among the style elite for years... Barney's Warehouse Sale tips.

When: Thursday August 23 - Monday, September 3, 2012.  (See image for times)
Where: 244 West 17th Street (between 7th and 8th avenue)


Sarah Stevenson:
This Canadian design did some of the prettiest floral prints I have ever seen.  The Sarah Stevenson collection at Toronto fashion week was a great display of engineered print artistry on simple dresses.  Now you can grab fantastic statement jewelry from design colleague Eliza Kozurno and Sarah herself at a shopping party.  Discounts up to 70% off.
When:  Thursday, August 23 - Sunday, August 26
Where: 102 Ossington Avenue, Toronto, Canada


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Monday, August 20, 2012

Rachel Antonoff Fall 2012

antonoff fall 2012
antonoff fall 2012

Do you like pretty things but with an edge? Rachel Antonoff's Fall 2012 collection was a mix of pretty retro prints in vintage inspired silhouettes.  Blouses and dresses had subtle mosaic embroidered trim.  Gathered details mixed with pretty Peter Pan collars.

Rachel Antonoff's collection, born in 2007, has been quickly gaining momentum.  Her partnership with Bass shoes produced chic floral creepers and patent leather flats.  Last season, her show was appropriate for Wednesday Addams. This season, it was still a sweet girl with a dark side, and what Gotham girl can't appreciate that?
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Friday, August 17, 2012

Stuttgart Textile Knitting Design - Master Class


stuttgart fashion design

What are the capabilities of a knitting machine? Jersey? Rib? The textile design students of the Stuttgart State Academy of Art set out to explore that question in their recent exhibit, "Flamboyant". In collaboration with Stoll America and Zegna Baruffa lane Borgosesia, the designers created fashion creations of amazing knitting design.

I never thought that a machine was capable of the type of fringe, loops, pleating, tubes and fur textures that I witnessed at this exhibit.  The Stoll America facility in Midtown Manhattan has a range of machines where designers can learn different techniques of this rapidly changing technology.

Designers like Velia Dietz, Pina Jax, Sophie Probst and Sara Wendler previously had little to no actual fashion experience.  They primarily focused on textiles.  However, with a period of trial and error, they were able to create fantastic, couture quality creations that any fashion house would be proud to claim as their own.

Machine knitting is a very complex process.  It used to be that each panel had to be knit separately, then linked together for a garment.  Now machines can create fully finished clothing with techniques one had only seen in woven fabrics.  Stoll has a huge library as a creative resource for designers to research as inspiration.

Are you ready to spin some yarn?

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Thursday, August 16, 2012

Fashion Designer Quotes - Part 2

When did fashion designers become the sages of our time? Their wit and wisdom now dominate some of the most popular Tumblr accounts.  Here are some of the best fashion designer quotes on the net:

kors project runway
One of the funniest new Tumblr accounts is Kor's Metaphors.  It takes screenshots from Project Runway and lists the Michael Kor's most scathing critiques.  Among the best gems:

"She just looked like rigatoni Mad Max"
"So she's a Snuggie designer?"
"She's borderline Teletubby".
"The blouse is just like a souffle that flopped."
"If the challenge was to make something for a 70 year old to go sit in a mall and get back to the house early so she can watch television, then you succeeded." 


Karl Lagerfeld (aka the Kaiser) has been to known for many sharp tongued statements.  That's why I am impressed with Karl Lagerfeld Quotes.  They have collected many of Karl's most inspirational statements as spoken from an artist.  Don't get me wrong, they haven't completely avoided fierce little quips...

"If you throw money out of the window throw it out with joy. Don’t say ‘one shouldn’t do that’––that is bourgeois."
"My thing is to work more than the others to show them how useless they are."
"Looking like an S&M fanatic without being one is grotesque."

He doesn't have a Tumblr, but he does have a Tim Gunn Twitter account.  Mentor to wannabe designers on Project Runway, he first started out as the education administrator at my alma mater, Parsons School of Design.  He has never claimed superior knowledge of fashion, and I love the fact that he lists "Educator" first among his many titles.  I also respect that he doesn't do the usual thing of pandering to the hottest personalities of current media:

"I just think the Kardashians have an absence of taste and I don't think that that should be perpetuated. I'm sorry I'm sounding like an old farty snob but it bothers me."

He called out Anna Wintour on having the worst Diva behavior by recounting something he witnessed: 
"I was with a colleague from Parsons, and we had been discussing the will-she-or-won't-she-take-the-elevator question, so we ran over to the elevator bay to see if Anna would deign to get on. She wasn't there. Then we looked over the stairway railing. And what did we see but Anna being carried down the stairs. The bodyguards had made a fireman's lock and were racing her from landing to landing. She was sitting on their crossed arms."

He was pressured to recount the story, and he refused, saying: 
 "Accept responsibility for your own behavior. If you're going to be carried down five flights of stairs, own up to it."

Always a good teacher:  “You can be too rich and too thin, but you can never be too well read or too curious about the world.” 
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Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Cats in Fashion, Choupette to Hello Kitty

karl lagerfeld cat

I've always said it...Fashion is not for pussies. I stand corrected. In the last few years, cats in fashion have been making a big splash in the media.

Choupette is the famous familiar of Karl Lagerfeld. Her overnight fame (she has made appearances in WWD, I-D magazine and now her own photo editorial in V-magazine) is not just for obvious cuteness, but the thought of an often intimidating designer doting on a sweet cat. Karl is often quoted for words that sound unforgiving or harsh, so his affection for the little fluffball shows a different side of him. Perhaps our obsession with Choupette is a projection of our own fantasies. Who wouldn't want the kaiser of Chanel doting on US while flying us in a private jet while two separate maids care for us?

Matilda is the legendary cat of the Algonquin Hotel. Her annual birthday party has turned into an elaborate feline fashion show benefit.. Matilda is an icon of the historical inn (there have been several versions of her). She has social media accounts where she Instagrams her #OOTDs as well as employs a social secretary. She is more socialite than many of the bolded names in gossip columns.


hello kitty fashion

Hello Kitty has always been a fashion icon to the Kawaii set since way back in 1974.  The fashionable feline has her own clothing collection (of course). She is expanding her style empire with collaborations with lingerie brand Hanky Panky, in makeup with M.A.C. cosmetics , fast fashion with Forever 21 and soon to be high fashion with Yohji Yamamoto.

Maybe that crazy aunt you had with the ugly cat Christmas sweater was just ahead of her time...

Photos from V-magazine, Time Out NY, Harper's Bazaar,Girly bubble
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Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Lakme Fashion Week Highlights 2013

lakme fashion week
Lakme Fashion Week 2013 is one of the largest fashion events for home grown designers in South Asia.  The designers range from elegant renditions of traditional dress to elaborate showpieces of the country's crafts.  Other designers brought their global aesthetic to modern collections, and some just strive to be artists.

Krishna Mehta's show (above) was a mix of simple silhouettes in a feminine color palette.  She used her knowledge of textiles and crafts to create opulent embroideries, fabric treatments and adding in Japanese shibori techniques as well.

Rajat K. Tangri's collection was called "La Cosa Nostra".  He designed men's and women's looks in dramatic, dark colors, baroque influences and art deco jewelry.
Wendell Rodricks took traditional Indian garments of kurtas and saris and created a simple, clean collection .  There was a grouping of subdued natural colors as well as groups with pops of turquoise and cranberry.  Color blocking, geometric shapes, linen and silk organza gave soft, but bold statements on the runway.
Photos courtesy of Lakme Fashion Week/img
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Monday, August 13, 2012

Fashion at the Olympics Closing Ceremonies

Danny Boyle brought Britain's rock n' roll to the Olympics opening ceremonies.  Last night however, creative director Kim Gavin and production designer Es Devlin will be famous for bringing British fashion to the Olympics closing ceremonies.

The industry most memorably showcased in the closing was fashion.  Famed photographer Nick Knight had his photos of Britain's supermodels, Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Stella Tennant, Lily Cole among others blown up and driven around the stadium.  The photos lifted to reveal the actual models themselves who then strutted the spokes of the Union Jack on the world's biggest runway.  The models wore British designers Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Vivienne Westwood, Victoria Beckham, Jonathan Saunders and Burberry.  

The Pet Shop Boys made an avant-garde entrance in bright orange prism-shaped carts dressed in dramatic Gareth Pugh.  Annie Lennox made a gorgeous Gothic style presentation in a corseted red gown.  She descended into a chorus of Goth-clad dancers in romantic ballgowns and frock coats.

Style I didn't care for as much?  Jessie J's barnacle-crusted nude bodysuit.  I"m sorry, did I miss something?  Was this an homage to oyster fishing in the British Isles?

I was excited to see the Spice Girls all looking so sexy and chic.  Geri Halliwell (aka Ginger Spice) looked fantastic in a shapely red dress with a nod to her signature British flag mini with a bustle made with the Union Jack.

While I  enjoy seeing fashion designers being honored at non-fashion events, I don't know if I really needed to see so much screen time devoted to models clomping down the stadium.  With an arena full of the most extraordinary athletes around the world, I found it almost an insult to celebrate models who are much more famous and better paid for merely walking.  I would have loved to see some of the Olympic athletes be the ones wearing British fashion designers.  Showing the artistry in the fashion with all of their muscle and showing the clothes in motion would have been truly impressive.  Imagine, a gymnast tumbling across the stadium in a flurry of satin,  a runner racing through while sparking in a beaded body suit?  

Is that too much to ask?

Trio: Jessie J, Tinie Tempah and Taio Cruz perform during the closing ceremony



PHotos from Phil Noble, Just Jared, Getty, Reuters
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Friday, August 10, 2012

Nautica Fall 2012

nautica fall 2012

Ok, I have given you plenty of female eye candy with all of the swimwear the past few weeks.  I thought I would inject a bit of menswear and male models today.  Here are some of the offerings from my former employer, Nautica Fall 2012 .   They have their sporty primary colors of course.  Their jackets are very popular.  As someone who has worked on them, I can tell you that the designers do a great job adding lots of useful details like reflective zipper tape, mesh interior pockets, reinforced openings for iPod headphones, etc.

Don't worry, as I am no longer a paid employee of this company, so I have no reason to compliment them unless I meant it.  Nautica may have lost its brand cachet in recent years, but they definitely make a good quality product for the price point.  (Plus their winter sample sales are a steal!).

Their Fall 2012 sportswear and denim had a rugged, preppy look this season.  The sweaters look quite cozy, and my Dad is a big fan of the multi-pocket vests.  Maybe it's in credit to the models, but don't you just want to snuggle to them?
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Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Swarovski Natural Reflection Preview

swarovski natural reflection
Chelsea was all about things that sparkle last night at Glass House 21 on top of the Chelsea Arts Tower.  Nadja Swarovski and Daniel Cohen, a fifth generation member of the Swarovski family hosted a penthouse soiree to introduce their new marcasite jewelry collection.  

Swarovski Gems Natural Reflection brought together the work of 14 designers like Ippolita, Stephen Dweck, Judith Jack among others.  The pieces took forms from nature and fused metal and gems together for their creations.  Jewelry ranged from a giant insect to jeweled vertebrae arm cuff.  Traditionally, marcasite jewelry is made of pyrite, which has a metallic sheen and has opaque properties.  This type of jewelry was quite popular in the Victorian era as well as in Art Nouveau periods.  Now, leading designers are revamping the technique for 2012.  

 Patrick McDonald, James Aguiar and Rebecca Taylor were among the guests who sipped sparkling wine and nibble on pastries hung from hooks across a large beam.  As a designer who uses a lot of Swarovski elements in my work, I am a big fan of their publications (in the gift bag).  I love using their photos as inspiration for colors and texture.

Here's to making life glitter...

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Tuesday, August 7, 2012

BlogHer 2012 Fashion Show

christy turlington soledad obrien blogher

Mommy bloggers is the largest demographic at the annual conference of BlogHer, but the fashion contingent came out in full force.  First, supermodel Christy Turlington Burns looked as beautiful as ever discussing her work with her organization, Every Mother Counts and documentary, "No Woman No Cry" with CNN anchor Soledad O'Brien.  The charity works as an advocate to educate and provide assistance to reduce the maternal mortality rate globally.

blogher fashion show
The same evening, BlogHer hosted its highly anticipated fashion show..
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Monday, August 6, 2012

Happy Birthday Andy Warhol



The most famous Pop artist in the world would have celebrated his 84th birthday today.  Before the iconic soup cans and portraits of Marilyn Monroe, Andy Warhol illustrated fashion for magazines like Harper’s Bazaar, Glamour, Mademoiselle and Vogue.

His fashion illustration style included deceptively simple line drawings, often with a blotted line technique and bright, flat colors.  The style is seen in many of his most famous pieces today.  The artist also collaborated with others to design fashion.  His artwork was printed on clothing pieces like the paper dress seen in the Paper Fashion Exhibit at Luxembourg's Musee de l'art Moderne.  Andy Warhol also inspired many other fashion designers with his witty motifs and color palette.  Jean Charles de Castelbajac’s Fall 2009 show took this humorous attitude to heart with the furry Warhol dress:

andy warhol fashion
He was influenced by fashion throughout his life, also collaborating with popular models of the day like Edie Sedgwick.  When he died, he was buried in the suit of his contemporary, Stephen Sprouse.
 
“Fashion isn’t what you wore someplace…It was the whole reason for going.”  - Andy Warhol

Paper Fashion Exhibit photo from Oranges and Apples.  Illustrations from the book Andy Warhol Fashion.    Photo of Edie and Andy from Warhol Stars.   Castelbajac Fall 2009 photo by Peter Stigter  


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